https://bicyclenomad.com/2019/01/01/flinders-island-the-next-step-and-a-spot-of-weather/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181211-tsjw7649.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181208-tsjw7638.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181208-tsjw7633.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181208-tsjw7628.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181207-tsjw7619.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181206-tsjw7600.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181205-tsjw7582.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181205-tsjw7579.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181204-tsjw7570.jpghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20181204-tsjw7564.jpg2021-06-08T03:37:08+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2019/06/19/mawson-trail-gallery/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190610-dsc_108720190615-pano-1.jpg20190610-DSC_108720190615-Panohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190614-dsc_117920190615.jpg20190614-DSC_117920190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190614-dsc_114820190615.jpg20190614-DSC_114820190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190613-dsc_113320190615.jpg20190613-DSC_113320190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190613-dsc_112620190615.jpg20190613-DSC_112620190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190610-dsc_109820190615.jpg20190610-DSC_109820190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190610-dsc_109220190615.jpg20190610-DSC_109220190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190610-dsc_108720190615-pano.jpg20190610-DSC_108720190615-Panohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190609-dsc_108620190615.jpg20190609-DSC_108620190615https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20190609-dsc_107720190615.jpg20190609-DSC_1077201906152019-06-21T13:36:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2018/07/27/mountain-vistas-family-riding-and-pushing-along-the-colorado-trail/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180723-tsjw7241.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA very fine mountain view to wake up to - we camped on top of Boreas Pass for this, instead of heading down the hill to Breckenridge/Frisco too quicklyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180723-tsjw7238-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA8 years previously we came the other way along here and camped just north of Como while waiting for mail at the post office there - a lot has happened in the meantime, but our desire to be our there and keep things simple hasn'thttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180723-tsjw7235.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe GDMBR from Salida to Frisco was mostly a massive change in feel and pacehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180719-tsjw7191.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPre-fall Aspen - so we had to imagine the glory of riding this trail later in the yearhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180717-tsjw7175-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180715-tsjw7155.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAlthough we brought boots for him, he mostly did his walking barefoot. There were a few stubbed toes, but mostly due to his persisting desire to raise clouds of dust whenever possiblehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180714-tsjw7135.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWaiting for the straggler with the trailer to arrivehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180714-tsjw7133.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180713-tsjw7106-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe mornings were almost always clear and sunny - whatever the weather the evening beforehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/20180713-tsjw7098-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHigh camps (this one in between Searle and Kikomo passes) were prompted by both impending yucky weather (not shown) and a joint family desire to 'be in the place' and spend some very productive time adding to all the cairns thereabout2018-11-08T14:25:05+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2017/06/14/parallel-lines-an-adventure-for-everyone/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170602-tsjw5037.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170601-tsjw5023-pano-2.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEvening light on our last night out before getting to Alice Springshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170531-tsjw4981.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFor the latter part of our trip the morning temperatures were around freezing, so we loaded Bryn up with lots of down in the trailerhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170530-tsjw4976.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADespite soft sand and river-rocks, I rarely had to pushhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170529-tsjw4947.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn and my set-up :-) In order to be self-sufficient we carried a tent, stove and cooking kit. As the Singletrailer precludes use of a seat-pack I ended up mounting one directly on the trailer. To increase my water capacity while keeping food capacity under his trailer-seat, I used a backpack with 3L bladder. Solar power (GoalZero Nomad7) kept us going nicely through the whole trip, though on the road sections I got up enough speed to charge of the dynamo hub. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170529-tsjw4919.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMore walking, with shoes too! The spiky nature of the underfoot meant that he even suggested he wear them himself. We only realised we'd lost the previous pair 3 days after the event.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170528-tsjw4865.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170528-tsjw4835.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWatching the walkers head off in the morning. We didn't usually take much longer to get going, but it was good not to have to be ready in a hurry (especially if you've got some more climbing/exploring to do)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170527-tsjw4745.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACamping together - all but one night of the trip in the end - worked really well. Especially as we had clear skies and no light pollution to diminish the milky way and starshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170524-tsjw4392.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere were also plenty of rocks to climb :-)2018-05-20T04:42:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2017/04/25/a-ride-along-the-trail-unknown/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170423-tsjw4160.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd then, when the loop was completed, we went to Fairbridge Festival - to Bryn's delight, but a more difficult change of pace and space for us.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170420-tsjw4115.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170418-tsjw4070.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170418-tsjw4058.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170418-tsjw4050.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170418-tsjw4034.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170416-tsjw4009.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170415-tsjw3989.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170415-tsjw3985.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/20170414-tsjw3965.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2017-04-25T15:09:15+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2017/01/14/reckoning-chariot-cx1-vs-tout-terrain-singletrailer/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/20140820-tsjw2049.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/20140820-tsjw2031.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL 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CAMERA2017-10-10T13:20:03+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2016/12/21/spain-baza-to-granada-sun-glorious-sun/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160522-tsjw0794.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160521-tsjw0783.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160521-tsjw0777.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160521-tsjw0758.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160521-tsjw0748-pano1.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160521-tsjw0692.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/20160519-tsjw0636.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL 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CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161029-tsjw2426.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161029-tsjw2380-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161028-tsjw2360.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161028-tsjw2341.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161028-tsjw2334.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161028-tsjw2321.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/20161028-tsjw2316-pano.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2016-11-02T04:38:48+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/09/11/canning-stock-route-logistics-and-more/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130815-img_0590.jpg20130815-IMG_0590https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw0154.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130809-tsjw0113.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust the last little bit get Scott pushing this onehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130808-tsjw0100.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130807-tsjw0070.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe both carried a number of MSR Dromedary water bags - bombproof and well worth the extra weight over the drom-lites or similar bagshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130807-tsjw0069.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWell 38 - not ideal, but it's only just over a day from here to well 41.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130805-tsjw0026.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130803-tsjw0402.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAnothing to do but ride the corrugationshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130802-tsjw0399.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbut not this one - pushing was the main area where I think two wheels were better than threehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130728-tsjw0280.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2016-01-16T16:09:42+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2016/01/01/munda-biddi-adventures-as-a-family/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151122-tsjw1605.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANothing is poassiblewithout TEWKhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151111-tsjw1241.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151116-tsjw1425.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe designers of the trail have routed it such that staying in a number of the towns along the way is expected. We didn't do this, but we did have a day off at one of a number of intervening non-camping optionshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151106-tsjw1105.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne for each hand - small and portable. Also easily lost/mislaid/inserted in some pretty creative ways down the sides of trailer seats with insistent need for prompt parental retrieval. These were part of a carefully metered collection of 'toys with a history' - He likes to know where each of them came from :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151122-tsjw1627.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151106-tsjw1144.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe route has many, many opportunities for trail-side camping. Given the ability to get away from the mosquitos and march flys along with weather protection, carrying a light-weight tent makes a lot of sense. Especially if staying in (even small) towns isn't your thinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151111-tsjw1226.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA13km of uphill road - maybe that should have encouraged us with the prospect of an easier ascent, but mostly it depressed us. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151114-tsjw1379.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWide open - and with very little shade. We seemed to hit prolonged periods of this on the hottest days which didn't help our desire for dappled, more interesting ridinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151122-tsjw1616.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20151111-tsjw1221.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot all are bad - the route passes through many smaller towns, often with historical interest as well as re-supply2016-01-16T15:48:03+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/12/10/boranup-trying-new-systems-and-learning-a-new-pace/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150928-tsjw0825.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn close-up ;-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150928-tsjw0822.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150928-tsjw0789.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe next morning our return route loops deeper into the foresthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0758.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0753.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe beach turns out to be well frequented by 4WDers - they seem to prefer the softer sand away from the water (thankfully)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0727.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah gets to ride without extra weight. The Singletrailer does surprisingly well with a 2.1" wide tyre as long as a certain pace is maintainedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0743.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0742.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACamp is in amongst the duneshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0722.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAll walk as we head towards firmer ridinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150927-tsjw0708.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur improvised figure-8 takes us onto the beach a while north of Hamelin Bay2015-12-11T13:32:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/bicycles/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/20141027-tsjw0254.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/20140622-tsjw1664.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/20130514-tsjw0073.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2017-12-31T21:30:39+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/about/2015-07-31T11:16:22+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2015/07/21/tasmania-granville-harbour-to-arthur-river/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150402-tsjw0897.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis means tailwinds for the final stretch to Arthur River - no slog, no sweat but effort-free riding. A great end to such a short but incredible journey.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150402-tsjw0889.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah and Bryn are there to meet us at Temma where the route gains road access again. Overnight the next front hits and the wind shifts to a more prevailing sou'westerly.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150401-tsjw0850.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMental note: must stay out of the waves. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150401-tsjw0806.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe new wind direction is strongly and unflaggingly offshore - carrying all the loose sand it can find.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150401-tsjw0795.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150401-tsjw0755.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMorning surf - the wind shifted overnight bringing dousings of sand with every gust.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150401-tsjw0744.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA campsite chosen for vista and a remembered CSR-wish for dune-top slumberhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150331-tsjw0712.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA few waist-deep fordings to catch the unwaryhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150331-tsjw0696.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPlenty of space to get lost between sky, sea and sandhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150331-tsjw0614.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAScott working on the only puncture of the trip - the result of whoop-bombing down a steep rocky descent :-)2016-11-22T10:26:06+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/07/07/kep-track-family-pace/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1228.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIf you've got a pick up option that doesn't require getting the whole way to Northam, I'd recommend finishing at the junction between the Great Eastern Highway and Spencer's Brook Road (parking available). After that it's either quiet paved road or a confusing mush of unsigned scrub to avoid where the original route has been blocked by recent development.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1223.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter a cunning support vehicle pickup Meg leads the chargehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1220.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPlan B (a little while later)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1209.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPlan A (minus the trailer)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1202.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMeanwhile the adults are onto cups of tea (again)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1206.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut the separation doesn't last long...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1198.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANext morning when we're helping out with some biomass planting (trees) it looks as if she may have given him the sliphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150510-tsjw1178.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur overnight stop is at a property owned by Tim's friend Alex. Bryn and Meg are having a great timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150509-tsjw1173.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhile you're pondering, there's always more teahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150509-tsjw1172.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGreg's home-fangled kiddie-trailer quickly showed signs of age with the hub bearings a long distant memory. Thankfully there was a backup plan or several :-)2015-07-07T15:21:54+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/06/28/cycles-of-return/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150601-tsjw1318.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150530-tsjw1261.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150601-tsjw1326.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThat and washing up (this probably won't last into his teenage years). https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150529-tsjw1249.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's all about pouring things at the moment - repeatedlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150530-tsjw1259.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn order to keep climbing without obligatory extra-familiar help, we've got into self-belaying. This works fine for climbs that are reasonably straight up and and down like "Keith goes blank". https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150529-tsjw1239.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALooking down from the look-out, the climbing's mostly on the left with some in plain view of the tourists and the better stuff hidden away down-streamhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150531-tsjw1290.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGetting distracted on the way from A to B is a significant issuehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150530-tsjw1263.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe spent nearly all our time at the Z-bend cliffs this time. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20100607-dsc_0042.jpg20100607-DSC_0042Hawk's Head at dawn - in the Kalbarri Gorge. Great ideas seem to crop up again - we headed up here for the June long weekend in 2010 and again in 2015.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150419-tsjw1122.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEspecially a sleeping toddler. We managed to get nearly all the way down before he woke up again :-)2015-06-28T14:47:57+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/05/12/red-lights-and-the-idaho-experiment/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/red_light.jpgred_light2015-05-12T12:18:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/04/13/tasmania-west-coast-remoteness/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0751.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150402-tsjw0902.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150402-tsjw0894.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150402-tsjw0887.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0819.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0816.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0800.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0790.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0776.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401-tsjw0754.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2015-05-05T09:56:43+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/03/04/down-south-work-and-relaxation/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150303-tsjw0187.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhile Sarah and Bryn walk/explore a section of Bibullman Track, I get a half-day pass to West Cape Howe. The recently soggy weather has made the sandy 4WD approach tame, and there's even less wind than another time. Our newly acquired 'self-belaying' kit means Sarah and I can climb alone in places like this until such time as one of us isn't needed for toddler-wrangling. It works pretty well - for me not the same as leading/soloing, but still access to the wildness of this placehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150302-tsjw0147.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWendy's place along the coast in Denmark hosts our final night. Raised beds are ripe for expolorationhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150302-tsjw0132.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn seemingly no time at all he's already onto the footwear-hijacking stagehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150301-tsjw0125.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe official reason I'm in Albany - The Great Southern Festival (Playmakers) is a an outbranching of the Perth International Arts Festival. I've played here before in early iterations, but not since 2010. May seemingly simple task is to play 'a few tunes' at an Irish jam session. Although chilly, a good time is had by pretty much all.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150301-tsjw0114.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAs is running 'Nee Naw' over all the handily placed trail markershttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150301-tsjw0103.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150301-tsjw0094.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Porongurups are not far away - Bryn manages to make his own way along nearly 3km of walking trail. Tree inspection is very important.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/20150228-tsjw0085.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAn afternoon of sunshine allows some beach riding - an somewhat justifies my insistence on bringing fat-bikes.2015-03-04T16:57:40+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/02/20/blackwall-reach-summer-heat/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150215-tsjw0136.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150217-tsjw0197.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150217-tsjw0195.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150217-tsjw0178.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150217-tsjw0172.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150215-tsjw0165.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150215-tsjw0141.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150215-tsjw0128.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2015-02-20T14:05:38+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2015/01/16/tasmania-a-miscellany/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150104-tsjw0658.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150115-tsjw0707.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMeanwhile, I'm back here bearing the afternoon headwinds while Sarah and Bryn adventure-on, and the kite-surfers seem to be having much funhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150107-tsjw0695.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALooking beyond the orchard to pastures steep and very well appointed with views.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150107-tsjw0694.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe main house's half buried in kitchen gardenhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150107-tsjw0693.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150107-tsjw0692.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIncluding the rather fine guest accomodationhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150107-tsjw0686.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIan, Kate and Hamish's farm is many of the things we've thought much abouthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150104-tsjw0667.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThough exploring the car is a suitable distractionhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150104-tsjw0639.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhitewater Wall - seacliff granite. In this mood, not the most child-friendlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150103-tsjw0632.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATemperatures passing 30 celcius one afternoon sent us scurrying swimming-wards. Heading back to camp is a fair bit faster when the over-inquisitive are carried.2015-01-16T15:46:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/11/30/munda-biddi-pemberton-onwards-and-back/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0448.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141130-tsjw0481.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABreakfast view :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141130-tsjw0479.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur final night's at the Schafer hut - only a minute or two off the trailhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141130-tsjw0474.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's got a dam for welcome swimming on warmer days than thishttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0466.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe huts have rainwater tanks - vital water sources for those passing by. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0449.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWending through greenhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0443.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe're trailer-less by accident, but we do get to see how we manage without. Our daily range is reduced a bit - nap-time becomes a static affair, but Bryn copes amazingly with hours on the Yepp-minihttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0440.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMany times the cycling and walking trails intersect.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141129-tsjw0438.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd sometimes sharehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141128-tsjw0433.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's pretty soggy the first day2014-11-30T15:34:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/11/26/west-cape-howe-wind-and-waves/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0426.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe day brightens for periods only. Getting here is a sandy slog with a climbing rack-laden pack, or an adventurous 4WD. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0420.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe plants are hardy, but not without beauty in minaturehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0412.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEvening gold, and retrieving the abseil rope. We'll be back.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0402.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhile it's barely possible to stand on the cliff-top, the climbs are mostly calmer - and beautiful.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0401.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARain was distinguished from the wave spray by taste. Brooding skies and atmosphere weren't in short supplyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0374.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARob on the way back up the first route of the day, and yet to shed his down layerhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0355.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAll that's seen from the top - a tight rope held with finger tips to judge when it's been vacated and time for the next person. Wind and waves make shouted signalling impossible.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141122-tsjw0348.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHow far down a climb to start is a judgement call. We didn't get to the bottom of most of the routes we climbed this weekendhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141121-tsjw0334.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAll the camping shelter to be had. 2014-11-26T14:00:40+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/10/29/european-bikepacking-routes/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/nicholas-carman1-21071.jpgNicholas Carman1 2107https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpblog001-1263.jpgWpblog001 1263https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/wpblog001-1192.jpgWpblog001 1192https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/bicycle-times-bikepacking-europe1-31.jpgBicycle Times Bikepacking Europe1 3https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/bicycle-times-bikepacking-europe1-74.jpgBicycle Times Bikepacking Europe1 74https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/nicholas-carman1-467.jpgNicholas carman1 467https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/nicholas-carman1-1184.jpgNicholas Carman1 1184https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/nicholas-carman1-588.jpgNicholas carman1 588https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/bicycle-times-bikepacking-europe1-37.jpgBicycle Times Bikepacking Europe1 37https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/nicholas-carman1-800.jpgNicholas Carman1 8002014-10-31T12:31:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/10/17/mt-arapiles-rock-climbing-the-family-way/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141009-tsjw0174.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter a week of bush-camp living and lots of rocks to practice on. Bryn's pretty happy with life. Heading upwards attached to a rope might attract his interest pretty soon (or there might be too much fun to be had at the bottom :-))https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141009-tsjw0162.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe abseil also gets used the following day after Pete doesn't get lost on the iconic Watchtower Crack and by Sarah who's sensibly picked a route in the sun...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141008-tsjw0142.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere's a multi-rope length abseil back down toohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141008-tsjw0137.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe biggest faces take several rope lengths of upward motion. This belay ledge is over 100m above our starting point.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141007-tsjw00921.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot all movement is upwards. Sophie's in safe handshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141007-tsjw0102.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABefore Mim makes it look effortlesshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141007-tsjw0105.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust round the corner Rob (the first) was trying not to lay a hand on rock, but just get the mix of momentum and belief just right.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141007-tsjw0092.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141007-tsjw0095.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/20141005-tsjw0063.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2017-01-07T22:13:55+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/09/23/the-day-before-the-storm/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140920-tsjw2218.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFlexibility's useful....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140920-tsjw2217.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah and Mim get some pointers from Pete who's got Blackwall Reach dialled2014-09-21T12:37:01+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/09/20/spring-time-flowers-julimar-state-forest/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2185.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2175.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2173.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2165.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2161.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140913-tsjw2159.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHe's pulled in quite a group. 2014-09-20T13:34:28+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/09/14/blackwall-reach-springtime-warm-ups/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140914-tsjw22031.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140914-tsjw2213.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140914-tsjw2203.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140914-tsjw2216.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne more to complete the impression. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140914-tsjw2201.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMiriam's joining for a week at Mt Arapiles (Victoria) in less than a month. This foray onto our local limestone river-cliff re-awakes our very dormant climbing muscles...2014-09-15T12:35:40+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/08/30/uk-2014-weather-weather-and-some-changes-in-priorities/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140825-tsjw2127.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140825-tsjw2125.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140825-tsjw2118.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANewcastle also gets a visit with sand-time, swimming at the pool and a bit more bike-time lubricating many more meetings.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140823-tsjw2105.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe way things work out, we meet up with plenty of old friends. Al and I chat our way round a Simonside double-loop in Northumberland while Sarah and Bryn meet his daughter Megan for the first timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140822-tsjw2099.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand some more speediness fill our dayshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140822-tsjw2094.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140822-tsjw2090.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwith the odd muddy face-planthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140821-tsjw2076.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATime to run around (in convoluted circles)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140820-tsjw2064.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA mix of Singletrailer and Yepp-mini together with puddle jumping pauses do the trick.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140820-tsjw2061.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbecause the new iteration takes us singing along here2014-11-20T15:14:14+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/canning-stock-route/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/high-plains-drifter.jpgHigh plains drifterPicture - Cass Gilberthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/csr-australia-map2.jpgCSR Australia map2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/csr-australia-map.jpgCSR Australia mapthe black line - a bit more context2014-08-08T20:01:34+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2014/08/07/uk-2014-beginnings-meetings-and-family/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140805-tsjw1902.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140803-tsjw1854.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe centre of the house - a place of warmth, coffee and foodhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140806-tsjw1934.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140806-tsjw1933.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWith my lurgy abating, and Sarah and Bryn's worsening we head out to Coed y Brenin for some trail riding. The bike's sporting a new chainring (the only damage in transport), and rattling the bike over the rocky singletrack gives the wheel-builds a good testinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140806-tsjw1925.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJosh keeps me company while Sarah's taking life a bit easier in an attempt to encourage a more rapid recovery.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140804-tsjw1888.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140804-tsjw1883.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140804-photo-4.jpg20140804-photo 4and my brother Ben and I (with Bryn in tow) make it all the way out to the Bar and the notoriously treacherous estuary mouth before turning back with the incoming tidehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140804-photo-2-1.jpg20140804-photo 2 (1)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/20140804-photo-1.jpg20140804-photo 1There's some beach riding. Actually not something we've done much of despite plenty of inland sand experience. We've been leant a Tout Terrain Singletrailer for this UK trip. We use a trip to Traeth Harlech to give it some testing2014-08-13T10:22:45+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/07/08/sarah-csr-final-camp-gate-crashers/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0677.jpg20130816-DSC_0677https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0674.jpg20130816-DSC_0674https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0671.jpg20130816-DSC_0671https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0667.jpg20130816-DSC_0667https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0654.jpg20130816-DSC_0654https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0651.jpg20130816-DSC_0651https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0650.jpg20130816-DSC_0650https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0648.jpg20130816-DSC_0648https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130816-dsc_0640.jpg20130816-DSC_0640https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/20130815-dsc_0630.jpg20130815-DSC_0630Dawn light at Kununurra Caravan Park befor a long drive isn't so bad2014-07-10T14:36:58+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/06/26/preparations-lines-on-a-map/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20140622-tsjw1641.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALeaving a wake in the wood chips (on the way to the playground slide). Bryn's into slides and toddling with equal faith that he will be caught should either go wrong...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20140622-tsjw1628.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's always more real when laid out on a 'proper map' :-)2014-06-25T12:21:08+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/06/22/a-bit-of-weather-winter-bicycle-commuting-in-perth/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20140618-tsjw1589.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe increased wear and tear is noticeable. I'm onto a second set of rims for this bike, and (not so patiently) await the day when I can justify a commute bike with disc brakes. Maybe a new tyre is due soon...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20140618-tsjw1587.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALots of winter in Perth is about rain. Since we live on the coast, it also means sand. For me this means that commute bike kit iterations tend towards 'as simple as possible'. This is quite impressive grinding and clagging pastehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20130620-tsjw0431.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASome of winter is crystal clear and bright/cold2014-06-22T14:31:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/06/05/helmets-wars-missing-the-point/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/jan_herse_gravel.jpgjan_herse_gravelhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/leschifirst.jpgLeschiFirsthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/poly_randonneur.jpgpoly_randonneurhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/lyli_chanteloup.jpglyli_chantelouphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/helmet_chart.jpghelmet_chart2014-08-05T00:09:22+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/04/30/ampeirce-trail-time/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140430-tsjw0952.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis Hope SS/Trials hub with bolt-through axle is much lighter than the fat-Rohloff and stiffens the rear end too. Although singlespeed is possible, I've allowed my knees the luxury of some gears. This selection cover the range I need pretty well, but does force me to free-wheel (loudly) on the fastest downhill stretches.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140430-tsjw0948.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASome modification has been needed to allow the 29x3.0" Surly Knard tyre to fit through the fork arch unhindered. I'll likely take some more off the sides as there was a bit of rub on aggressive cornering. I've also beefed up the axle to stiffen things.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140430-tsjw0951.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe crank/chainring are the same, but the drop-outs are swung to their inner most position. Still enough chainstay clearance and the cable routing across the 'plate' works a treat.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140430-tsjw0942.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA29+ hardtail mode https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140430-tsjw0940.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is the lighter, faster trail machine. The Reba 29 RLT fork is set for 100mm travel which lifts the front end a touch compared to the rigid fork. I have the option to lower it to 80mm, but the ride didn't suffer for the longer travel. The standover in this mode is as high as fits me - but not too high.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140406-tsjw0719.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA reminder of the 'fat' to set the scene. The tyres/rims obligate a Rohloff hub for gears in this non-offset frame. A rigid fork and bar-roll friendly Jones H-bars have been gladly retained having thoroughly earned their place on the CSR2016-03-24T11:14:26+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/04/16/ampeirce-in-the-fat/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0761.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn's quite happy though - endless diversion to be had with bicycles to explorehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0750.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0749.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Peirce's full potential is difficult to judge while hauling the Chariot - I've changed very little in the build with all but the crank transferred from the Twenty2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0746.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAQuickly followed by more ridinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0742.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe return leg is varied by heading along a 'challenging' section that we'd bypassed the evening before. There's a fair number of cautious momentshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140412-tsjw0740.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah and Bryn's birthday weekend sees us doing a two day Munda Biddi trip south from Collie - rendered minorly unsatisfactory by it's out-and-back nature. Hut arrival is welcomehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140406-tsjw0730.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFor the curious, there is comfortable clearance between tyre and chain-stay despite a non-offset rear and standard 73mm BB casinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140406-tsjw0722.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis frame, like Sarah's is designed to take multiple wheelsets - here with 26x4.0" fat tyreshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140403-tsjw0694.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAn experiment with my 82mm rim-based front wheel is likely too tight, though it turns freely with 2-3mm spare either side of an almost new tyrehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/20140403-tsjw0693.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASome solutions to the frame's multiple guises: derraileur drop-out plates for my planned 1x6 29+ light weight trail bike, and Chariot hitch spacers with stabilising bolts that slot into the drop-out to keep everything secure hauling the trailer on rough off-road2014-04-16T15:28:51+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/route-notes-australia/western-australia/2014-03-25T13:24:51+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2014/03/15/munda-biddi-donnybrook-to-manjimup-midday-sun-and-march-flies/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140301-tsjw0490.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe second day we innocently arrived in Nannup, only to find that there was a music festival on... This meant a stop to look round, and plenty of bicycles to climbhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140303-tsjw0558.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand some reminders that fire is always a dangerhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140303-tsjw0555.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn seemed the least bothered by themhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140303-tsjw0545.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA cool start from the last hut before Manjimuphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140303-img_0818.jpg20140303-IMG_0818Before Bryn and Sarah settle in to guard the bikes while I hitch back to Donnybrook for the carhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140302-tsjw0544.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe ran afoul of clouds of painfully bitey March Flies that didn't allow very much relaxation at all for much of the trip. Hiding in the tent gave some respite as long as you didn't lean up against the wallhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140302-tsjw0541.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe had all the huts to ourselves, including this one on the last night before Manjimup. Our hut-mates over New Year had praised it highly.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140302-tsjw0519.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFat tyres aren't strictly necessary, but they make child-loaded trailers much easier to pull through all the pea-gravel and allow more assured control on the technical bits with Bryn in the Yepp-mini up front.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140302-tsjw0516.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnfortunately there were a couple of significant diversion onto more mainstream dirt roads. The rest of the route was just fine, thank you :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20140301-tsjw0488.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAnot without consequences2014-03-16T03:14:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/03/14/adventure-cycling-association-annual-photo-contest/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/20130729-tsjw0283.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2014-03-14T13:33:14+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/03/14/a-hint-ampeirce-in-the-making/2014-03-31T15:26:19+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/02/02/photography-gallery/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/20120103-dsc_0418.jpg20120103-DSC_04182014-02-02T04:41:14+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/01/22/summer-heat-some-swimming-and-more-munda-biddi/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140119-tsjw0319.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe next day - more of the same (the green and dapple). On to Kwokralup Beela hut via Fernhook again.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140118-tsjw0294.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASomewhere around Bridgetown, when it's time for a bit of out-of-car distraction, a decision is made. The southern-most option. One of the locals we disturb.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140118-tsjw0287.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACreative route planning (a la Sarah) centres the trip around Fernhook Falls, and a swimming hole.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140118-tsjw0281.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACrawling - he's not going to be content with where he's put anymore.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140118-tsjw0270.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnpacking seems so much more attractive than the reverse.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140117-tsjw0266.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWater was carried in case 20km proved too much at 5pm. Yirra Kartta hut.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140117-tsjw0265.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAway from the road, and breathing deeply of the dapple and green. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140117-tsjw0261.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALeaving town, having packed 2 bikes, the Chariot and up-front Yepp-seat, all we are sure of is that we'll ride in the shade of tall trees for a couple of days somewhere south of where we are. Fitting everything in is a bit of a juggle at the moment.2014-01-22T14:10:17+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/01/11/the-meeting-of-ocean-and-rock-west-cape-howe/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0208.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0205.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0204.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0202.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0201.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0198.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140103-tsjw0194.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140106-1557405_10151920195095963_696364716_o.jpg20140106-1557405_10151920195095963_696364716_ohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140106-1492506_10151920199385963_1778865447_o.jpg20140106-1492506_10151920199385963_1778865447_ohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140106-1483664_10151920251135963_1060389514_o.jpg20140106-1483664_10151920251135963_1060389514_o2014-01-16T22:38:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/01/09/blackwood-river-at-christmas-multi-day-canoeing/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131228-tsjw0090.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe resort to an extremely early mark a couple of km short of our destination to avoid doing what we though could take 4-5 days in just over 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131227-tsjw0078.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot to mention some more snooze timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131227-tsjw0063.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADespite daily progress being pretty lazy - and allowing for everyone to watch the fishhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131226-tsjw0056.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUntil he's joined by the rest of ushttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131226-tsjw0055.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur canoe for the trip is a pretty solid and stable plastic one borrowed from Sarah's sister's front yardhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131226-tsjw0047.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABeing parked in a tent away from bitey things seems somewhat lost on Brynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131226-tsjw0038.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANo-one's in any particular hurryhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131226-tsjw0036.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo lunch turns into a bit of nap-timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131225-tsjw0030.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhat with setting up the bike shuffle and not being in a hurry to get going that morning, we only have a couple of hours paddling time on Christmas Day. But camp-sites abound.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20131225-tsjw0023.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2014-01-09T02:15:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2014/01/07/down-south-an-impromptu-munda-biddi-overnight-loop/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0178.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0175.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0172.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0169.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0167.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA refreshing pausehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0162.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0161.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn's the master of all he surveys (while awake anyway)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140102-tsjw0160.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe manage to carry all we need in two Porcelain Rocket seat packs, my frame bag and the Chariot. We opted to put a tent up at the Booner Mundak hut rather than disturb the family who'd already set up when we arrived. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/20140101-tsjw0154.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATaking in some open but quite sandy-soft forest roads, this stretch of the Munda Biddi is just what we wanted2014-06-18T14:42:51+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/12/22/a-bicycle-to-replace-the-one-that-was-lost/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0451.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah's well used Porcelain Rocket seat-pack survived the Mendoza loss - and is now well ensconced on the one bike to rule them all :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0439.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACutting the full 63km loop short as we only had the day. Finishing the afternoon on the Nanga road - nicely emptyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0435.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASleeping upright in the Yepp-mini doesn't work, so I was pulling the Chariot for snooze time. There's a very satisfying zen to visualisation of twin trailer wheel passage over roots and rocks. Especially to keep things smooth - suspension (in the trailer) helps.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw04371.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASome of it was a bit more twistyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0425.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe majority of the trail is dual-track and fire road. Chatting to Bryn in his prime position was rewarded with relaxed calmnesshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131214-tsjw0394.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe initial round-the-block test ride auto-extended to several laps. Grins magnified each time.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131214-tsjw0398.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn Bryn carrying mode - carefully lockedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131215-tsjw0413.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA The 'thin' version - Stan's Arch EX 29er rims, with 700x28c Schwalbe Durano Plus road tyreshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0442.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe 'fat' version with Marge Lite rims and Husker Du 26x4.0" tyres. No room for anything wider at the rear.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20111211-dsc_0138.jpg20111211-DSC_0138Stripped naked for new parts and some much needed tlc in La Paz, Bolivia. This is the bicycle that was lost.2018-04-28T11:08:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/bicycles/calfee-bamboo-fatthin-bike-sarahs/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0437.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMuch happiness ensueshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131215-tsjw0417.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Moonlander fork is a bit overkill at this anglehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131221-tsjw0449.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA nice neat set-uphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131208-tsjw0335.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAInternal cable routing - Rohloff cables in the down tube and rear brake in the left hand top tubehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131207-tsjw0323.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131207-tsjw0295.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131207-tsjw0294.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20131207-tsjw0292.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2013-12-22T15:08:15+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2013/11/24/urban-cycling-bike-blackspot-app/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/blackspot-map-example.jpgBlackspot map examplehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/blackspot-mapperth.jpgBlackspot mapPerthhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/blackspot-map1.jpgBlackspot map1https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/bike-blackspot-app.jpgBike Blackspot app2013-12-09T14:33:48+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/11/11/here-to-there-and-back-again-commuting-and-bicycle-evolution/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20130705-tsjw0497.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAReady for this tomorrow, or another like ithttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20130706-tsjw05231.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAReady for this tomorrow?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131108-tsjw0205.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthe next generation coming into truehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131110-tsjw0232.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAa sprinkling of loosened grimehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131109-tsjw0224.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnlacing the wheels to reuse the hubs - all-weather exposurehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131108-tsjw01741.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOthers - two wheel rims neglected - are now unsafely wornhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131029-tsjw0102.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASome things bedded in and set for lifehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20131107-tsjw0156.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALengthening days combined with smiles-giggles at home. A recent evening dodging and weaving the rush.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20130705-tsjw0494.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA different morning - none the samehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/20130611-tsjw0414.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe more definitive solution - single-sided. Not long until velo-contemplation realises that no left-hand gear changes are required. So, lose the un-used cabling and chain ring. Another iteration made2013-11-13T13:55:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/11/02/canning-stock-route-riding-a-bicycle/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130818-dsc_0762.jpg20130818-DSC_0762https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0717.jpg20130816-DSC_0717Sarah'd taken one look at the clean white fabric and laughed. Despite Scott's assertions that it was white because it didn't 'take' dye, Sarah won the wager as to whether the Australian red-dirt would do a more permanent jobhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0715.jpg20130816-DSC_0715As suspected, this proved the best combination. In light of this, we'll be putting Arkel rails on the Ortlieb panniers too.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0713.jpg20130816-DSC_0713This prototype 'fat' Extrawheel trailer body has pannier mounting racks like the conventional versionhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0711.jpg20130816-DSC_0711My pannier - two of Porcelain rocket provenance were rear bike-based, with the two Ortliebs on the trailer. The latter had been used by Sarah for 17,000km during our Americas trip. We'd elected to double-up on the upper clamps and lower hook to minimise rattle and rack-wear. For the Porcelain Rocket bags we used Arkel rails and clamps with doubled Ortlieb Plus lowers.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0709.jpg20130816-DSC_0709Mine held up perfectly, but Scott did manage to spear his while barrelling down closed-in dunes (twice). He then held off repairing the gashes to see if they extended with ongoing abuse. A fine piece of product destruction testing proved that the rip-stop fabric does stop rips. The motto might be to ride more carefully however...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0706.jpg20130816-DSC_0706No worse for all the wear it had suffered. Both of us used leather saddle - mine a Brooks B17 and Scott's a Sella Anatomica. With the heat, the smoother surface helped reduce abrasion. We would both recommend padded bicycle shorts after our experience of the corrugations.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0705.jpg20130816-DSC_0705With my trailer wheel to create drag coming down dunes I didn't need more than a rear-wheel brake. The rotor-bolts needed to be watched as they came loose a couple of times, but I had plenty of stopping power.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0704.jpg20130816-DSC_0704Similarly the yoke 'grips' the ends of a QR skewer specific to Extrawheel. This, the non-drive side, has the spacer required to compensate for the off-set rear wheel. Unfortunately the skewer isn't all that robust - so bring a spare...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0703.jpg20130816-DSC_0703Both rear wheel and trailer wheel clearance is adequate.2015-06-14T07:05:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/10/03/bunyan-velo/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/bv_issue03_release1.jpgBV_Issue03_Release12013-10-02T22:41:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/09/24/sarah-in-the-meantime-gibb-river-road/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/p8080736.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130810-dsc_0577.jpg20130810-DSC_0577https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/p8110825.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/p8100798.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/p8080729.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20130812-dsc_0617.jpg20130812-DSC_0617Rachel chose her swag over sharing the tent with us. I'm not sure whose company she was less than keen on, mine or Bryn's.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/p8130931.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis part of the country does a very fine line indeed in boab treeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/p8130917.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe aptñy named "Turquoise Lake" on El Questrohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/p8110841.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe walk in to Manning Gorge provides still more challenge and adventure.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/p8110839.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA...but gets over it pretty quickly.2013-09-24T20:55:51+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/26/sarah-left-holding-the-baby/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130725-dsc_0522.jpg20130725-DSC_0522Maybe I'll wait til his legs are a little longer before I get him to take a turn at the wheel2013-09-16T11:15:50+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/08/07/sarah-the-grey-nomad-trail-aka-not-the-canning-stock-route/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/img_0438.jpgIMG_0438https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/img_0436.jpgIMG_0436https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/img_0437.jpgIMG_0437https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130808-dsc_0552.jpg20130808-DSC_0552A travel companion who looks like this will earn you free showers, cups of tea, meals, and lots of wonderful and memorable conversationhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/img_0439.jpgIMG_0439https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-dsc_0537.jpg20130726-DSC_0537Tom and Pete mind Bryn so I can have a quick wash and take a few photoshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-dsc_05341.jpg20130726-DSC_0534Stuart and Rob, who, after this adventure is done, will swap stories with us in Freamantle over tea and cake. We'll see you in Tas, boys https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-dsc_0535.jpg20130726-DSC_0535The beautiful Hamersley Gorge, enhanced by evening light and the lack of other tourists. A magical hourhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-dsc_0534.jpg20130726-DSC_0534https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-dsc_0532.jpg20130726-DSC_05322013-09-16T11:13:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/09/14/canning-stock-route-a-gallery/2013-09-14T22:40:52+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/09/08/canning-stock-route-off-the-bike/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130810-tsjw0140.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAfffhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130801-tsjw0356.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAmorning waking - bird-call rousedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130801-tsjw0351.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130726-tsjw0230.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA 'time to stop' camp-site. No worry of meeting others, as what traffic there was stopped long before we did.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130723-tsjw0149.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthough we did have a stove and limited fuel, most of our cooking was fire-centred.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130723-tsjw0147.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAanxious momentshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130723-tsjw0142.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130723-tsjw0141.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA starthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130722-tsjw0113.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAleading to a time to sigh, maybe talk, and let the food start the recovery in time for bed. Dark determined2013-09-09T14:26:36+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/08/31/canning-stock-route-photography/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw01831.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADown-dune speed (Olympus 12mm f/20)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130418-photo.jpg20130418-photoOne of the earliest kit upgrades I made when we got back from the 20 month Americas Trip was to invest in a smaller/lighter system than the Nikon DSLR I'd carried for 28,000kmhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130813-tsjw0266.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALizard escape tracks - they would run along the middle of the track before a sharp right angle turn into the bushes (Panasonic zoom 100mm f/2.8)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw0197.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis expanse of zero-shade coincided (fittingly) with lunchtime. So, it was delayed until something better could be found (Rokinon 7.5mm Fish-eye)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw0192.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust as we were standing at the top of a dune wondering how to get the disgruntled camels a few hundred metres away, a 4WD turns up (Panasonic zoom 100mm f/2.8)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw0183.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADown-dune speed (Olympus 12mm f/20)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130808-tsjw0106.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGallahs in the dusk-light at well 41 (Panasonic zoom at 100mm, f/4.0)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130808-tsjw0087.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA third wheel for water carrying and spare parts in time of need. Softer sand, but well compacted (Olympus 12mm at f/2.0)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130801-tsjw0355.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADawn light on camp (Rokinon 7.5mm Fish-eye)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130801-dune-descent-1.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe effect of the front panniers on his steering took a bit of getting used to - but didn't hold him back much on the dune descents :-)2013-10-17T15:47:21+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/08/25/canning-stock-route-how-to-begin-a-flavour/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130818-dsc_0772.jpg20130818-DSC_0772Including some coastal time to attempt readjustment, or just absorbing the horizon in the fading lighthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130817-dsc_0746.jpg20130817-DSC_0746That just leaves 6 days to drive back to Fremantlehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0719.jpg20130816-DSC_0719With the best welcome possiblehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130816-dsc_0676.jpg20130816-DSC_0676An end. Riding into Billiluna, 26 days after we left Wilunahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130813-tsjw0306.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter an extra rest day at well 46 to allow me to recover from being unwell timed to coincide with the worst dunes, we speed back up with lightened loads and not far to go. A wonderfully windy camp under the Breaden Hillshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130813-tsjw0270.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130812-tsjw0249.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut that is nothing compared to the care and generous friendliness we are gifted. Sometime there is even a present - a package of sweets and other morsels left hanging in well 46 by the Global Gypsies tag-along group that we met at well 33.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130811-tsjw0153.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANavigation is mostly straightforward, but we have a paper map to mull and brood over, with GPS as backuphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130810-tsjw0129.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe further north we ride, the hotter the days become - and shade becomes rarer.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/20130808-tsjw0108.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe wells portioned out the route - only a handful restored or functional. This one (Well 41) is the crux - without which there's a significantly bigger water load for the hardest stretch of dunes between it and well 452013-10-02T09:13:48+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/22/sarah-seeing-the-boys-off/2013-08-25T13:14:27+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/08/16/completed-canning-stock-route/2013-08-31T16:59:21+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/19/canning-stock-route-controlled-chaos/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130719-tsjw0007.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA35 days in two boxes - to be packed into two panniers - then time to resthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130719-tsjw0006.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130719-tsjw0009.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe aftermath of a wheel conversion - a last minute change in trailer means I had to convert the trailer wheel from offset to symmetrical.2013-07-21T15:31:44+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/18/canning-stock-route-final-touches-and-meeting-the-locals/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130713-tsjw0543.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACold slowed and lazing in mid-trail; Scott's introduced to one of the locals by Timhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130714-tsjw0545.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASarah and I tag-team. The network of easier trails and fire-roads intersect the singletrack more often than we'd previously noticed. We each get out turn to flow along the narrowness - and Bryn only complains when the trailer stops moving.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130716-tsjw0005.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe trailer arrives from Twenty2 Cycles - this is a prototype, but it will accommodate any wheel size from 26" to 29+ with any hub spacing (symmetrical or offset).https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130630-tsjw0489.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI've been doing my share of fettling: plenty more red dirt yet to comehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130713-tsjw0539.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAScott had to completely dismantle his fat semi-long bike to get it into the box. Putting it back together allows careful checking along the way2013-07-19T16:42:13+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/10/canning-stock-route-south-to-north-it-is/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/photo.jpgLoaded Hunter Fat LongtailScott's bike fully loaded - the amazing thing is that he's got all this in a standard Qantas bike box! (photo: Scott Felter)2013-07-11T15:43:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/07/04/a-line-on-the-map/2013-07-09T21:36:44+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/06/21/on-a-cold-and-frosty-morning-winter-commuting/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130620-tsjw0431.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2013-06-22T14:05:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/americas-bike-trip/2013-06-11T11:59:10+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2013/06/09/trains-and-rail-trails/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0399.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEmerginghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0396.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANear the end of the loop we get to the tunnel - just short enough that you can see the other end. Long enough and dark enough that there's some spice to riding it. There's even a bolt-hole halfway along that provides kids with no end of ambush possibilities...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0388.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbefore letting us catch uphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0383.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATim's got a new (old) bike, so enthusiasm takes him ahead of us lazieshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0382.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA couple of washers space the hitch 'socket' out to allow it to clear the Rohloff 'gear-box'https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0381.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0380.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALooks complicated - but isn't. The Chariot trailer-hitch is a simple ball-end held into the QR-mounted socket by a vertical pin that's nice and secure for riding, but easy to undo in a hurry to get the bike-trailer on and off trains etc.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0375.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASometimes he sleeps - sometimes he watches the world go by. Always cosy and rarely upsethttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0369.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn's behind me - getting some more trailer pulling practice - this time on the fat-bikehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130608-tsjw0385.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFast as you like, and smooth going. 3-abreast chatting2013-06-09T14:46:52+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/06/07/high-plains-drifter/2013-06-07T14:17:22+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/06/05/a-cunning-plan-bryns-first-multi-night-camping-trip-and-a-plan-with-multiple-back-ups/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0346.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA back-pack on either side nicely weighs down the back wheel. Progress once we're onto the Munda Biddi is not fast by any stretch of the imagination: but there's a certain 'zen' to finely controlling 5km/hr wheel by wheel by 2 wheel passage over/round trail features. Bryn just lies there avidly taking in the view.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0338.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe full 'train' loaded up. After the last off-road chariot-pulling experience, I've put better mtb tyres on. The rear 26x2.4" Maxxis Ardents only just fit the Big Dummy frame.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0336.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABryn waits for the off - just under an hour to the bikes.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0335.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe inner's fully fine-mesh. Perfect for summer camping and sky-views (and top-ups)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130602-tsjw0316.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADarknesshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0322.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACompared to a '4-season' tent, the fly doesn't come down so far. For our local use - not a problemhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130603-tsjw0320.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's just under or a bit more under a kilo, even with a groundsheet. for a 2 person double-wall tenthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130602-tsjw0308.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACamp o'clock. The Big Agnes Flycreek Platinum 2 is for the Canning Stock Route trip in a few weeks - it did have to be vetted though.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130602-tsjw0303.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASometime wooded, and here more open; the trail passes under our feet.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130602-tsjw0296.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALater, asleep (still) and allowing us to lunch2015-10-01T11:11:00+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/05/26/ride-to-brekky-freo-frocks-cycle-group/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-11.jpg20130526-photo (1)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-3.jpg20130526-photo (3)The final stretchhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-5.jpg20130526-photo (5)with single-file only for cornershttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-16.jpg20130526-photo (16)Actually chatting pre-dominates - with Bryn safely-warmly tucked away up fronthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-6.jpg20130526-photo (6)However Gwynne, how's not constrained by riding surfaces, isn't to be outdonehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-7.jpg20130526-photo (7)Shani, sporting an electric-assist motor built into her front wheel, thinks she's got the tussle for the lead nailedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-8.jpg20130526-photo (8)Thankfully all is brought into hand by Hampton Road; where Shani takes charge of directions while Rachel keep Gynne under control.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-15.jpg20130526-photo (15)The pack in chasehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-12.jpg20130526-photo (12)Opening up an inadvertent lead. Given their recent record in direction senses clouded by conversation it's best to keep them in eye-shothttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130526-photo-14.jpg20130526-photo (14)Continuing topics from their walk the day before; Rachel and Sarah (with Bryn in sling) take the lead2013-05-26T14:29:54+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/05/20/dwellingup-off-the-grid-with-bryn-exploring-slowly/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130515-tsjw0095.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe cheat slightly at the end - onto smoother terrainhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130515-tsjw0088.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthen on againhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130515-tsjw0087.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Les Cousins bridle-horse trail. Works well for (bi/tri)cycles toohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130515-tsjw0083.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwhat goes in, must come outhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130515-tsjw0081.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAStopping to feed Bryn. The trike works well to keep things comfortable. The Big Dummy hauling the trailer (very slowly at times - to avoid too much rattling) and gives plenty of carrying options for all that you might need.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130514-tsjw0073.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130514-tsjw0051.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGhosting along (illicit) trailshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130514-tsjw0044.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFirst passing through Dwellingup. Once a busy rail-serviced mill-town; things are much quieter nowhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130513-tsjw0033.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWalking too - a car left at the end of a Bibbulman segment, biked back (Tom). Bryn blissfully snug doesn't notice a thing (just don't stop!)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130512-tsjw0003.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAStill plenty of sitting around though2014-07-09T22:19:17+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/04/29/down-to-two-gears/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130429-tsjw0447.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFiddle with the limit screws to get into a reasonable gear. Surprising how far in you can get.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130429-tsjw0446.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANo point having the cable coming in here eitherhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130429-tsjw0445.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot working - get rid of the cable - nothing but brakes on that side now2013-05-03T13:38:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/05/03/getting-out-and-about/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130503-tsjw0482.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe route is particularly well equipped with places to rest up - here after a feedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130503-tsjw0469.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALots of the cycleways look over the sea, but some takes you a bit further away. The trike rides like a pedal-powered go-kart, with cornering as fast as you dare being a big part of the funhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130503-tsjw0474.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur 'fleet'. I'm towing our major Bryn-related extravagence - the Chariot CX-1. Sarah's riding the Greenspeed Tricycle2013-05-30T18:05:53+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/04/15/a-new-adventure-sarahs-birthday-present/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw02451.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMeeting everyone - knitted bootee fittinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw02301.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe family back at homehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130415-tsjw0259.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASleeping in the morning afterhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0256.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFirst night feedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0245.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMeeting everyone - knitted bootee fittinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0241.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0231.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0230.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe family back at homehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0227.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130414-tsjw0202.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2013-05-02T10:10:04+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/04/07/fremantle-graffiti-as-art/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130407-tsjw0063.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwith plenty of bustle around the food and coffee (not to mention, the certain something added by 2 large multi-colour zebras)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20121120-tsjw1041.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGlass jars for lamp-shades - and simple/retro decorhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130407-tsjw0060.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABoisterously eye-catching - and most definitely not destructively defacing.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130407-tsjw0058.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAApproaching Ootong & Lincoln from the quiet side-street (short-cut) onto South Terrace2013-04-07T14:41:14+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/03/24/sarah-tiene-hijos/2013-03-27T16:10:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/20130323-americas-trip-map.jpg20130323-Americas trip map2017-06-14T06:28:40+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2013/03/17/kalamunda-a-sunny-sunday-afternoon/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/20130317-204019.jpg20130317-204019.jpg2013-03-19T02:14:43+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/03/06/americas-trip-revisited-an-event-in-fremantle-8th-march/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/20130306-replants-advert.jpg20130306-Replants advert2013-03-08T14:54:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/02/03/jarrahdale-5-adults-4-children-and-study-in-permutations/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130202-tsjw02221.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt quickly becomes apparent that the BOB is much preferred to the twice-rejected car seat as Molly and Megs sample all the available options in quick succession.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130203-img_0277.jpg20130203-IMG_0277"Monkey" gets the best view thoughhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130203-tsjw0274.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMorning tea (and grapes - thank you Dimelza) at Balmoral in full swinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130203-tsjw0273.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAt the bottom of the softest hill, we shade-group (it's 35 already). Barring a small knee-scraping spill, Britta's ridden the whole way on a fully-rigid bike that she's only just got and is (still) a bit too big for her. Much promise there.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130203-tsjw0272.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe return trip goes much more smoothly - mostly as I'm still riding hemi-braked with a snaffled front wheel. Ben's usurped Megs's spot and chats to Molly while Greg and Tim make the most of firm going.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130203-tsjw0251.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe hut's empty when we arrive, and there's water in the tanks. Somewhat unsurprisingly we're all quite tired, so dinner quickly fades into bed-timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130202-img_0274.jpg20130202-IMG_0274Greg and his cargohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130202-img_0273.jpg20130202-IMG_0273Immediate point of note - it takes a lot of concentrated relaxation not to 'steer' on slippy-skiddy pea gravelhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130202-img_0272.jpg20130202-IMG_0272Me - I get to ride stoker on the tandem. I've not tried this before - and the learning curve isn't helped by a unalterably low saddle and more loose pea gravelhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/20130202-img_0269.jpg20130202-IMG_0269Slightly better the other way up...2013-04-07T09:27:09+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/01/31/australia-day-weekend-a-smattering-of-explorations/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130129-tsjw0180.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA final luxuriantly slow start before tearing ourselves away from monastic solitude for the journey home. Leaving the Kangeroo Paws behindhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130128-tsjw0149.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACunningly, (for us) the wind is 'con favor'https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130128-tsjw0151.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbefore opening up to the sea breeze into the Nornalup Inlethttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130129-tsjw0171.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe paddle-leg starts like thishttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130129-tsjw0175.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt's also one of the better campsites we've found in quite a whilehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130128-tsjw0129.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABikes meet boats at Monastery Jetty - so named for it's impression on an official party sent to assess the area for timber/cattle use in 1910. Such that the Walpole-Nornalup National Park was the outcome.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130128-tsjw0128.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABike-leg first. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130127-tsjw0115.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe local fishermanhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130127-tsjw0103.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWeaving a path back downhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130127-tsjw0101.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot used this time, but now lacking regular access by road, this will make a fine camp for another weekend river trip2013-01-30T17:11:21+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2013/01/07/hungry-neighbours/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130106-tsjw1207.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130106-tsjw1203.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130106-tsjw1202.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/20130106-tsjw1200.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2013-01-07T15:28:24+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/08/11/canada-banff-to-elkford/2012-12-22T14:14:58+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/12/14/sarah-jordan-impressions-part-2-reluctant-cycle-tourist/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121124-img_0228.jpg20121124-IMG_0228https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121111-dsc_0181.jpg20121111-DSC_0181https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121113-dsc_0221.jpg20121113-DSC_0221https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121112-dsc_0204.jpg20121112-DSC_0204https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/dsc_0559.jpgDSC_0559https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121124-img_0227.jpg20121124-IMG_0227https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121124-img_0221.jpg20121124-IMG_0221https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121123-img_0206.jpg20121123-IMG_0206https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121123-img_0195.jpg20121123-IMG_0195https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121122-dsc_0300.jpg20121122-DSC_03002012-12-26T23:19:51+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/12/12/sarah-jordan-impressions-permaculture-in-the-dead-sea-valley/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121118-img_0190.jpg20121118-IMG_0190https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121119-img_01911.jpg20121119-IMG_0191https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121108-dsc_0151.jpg20121108-DSC_0151https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121102-dsc_0149.jpg20121102-DSC_0149https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121026-dsc_0132.jpg20121026-DSC_0132https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121026-dsc_0131.jpg20121026-DSC_0131https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20121026-dsc_0124.jpg20121026-DSC_01242012-12-12T12:42:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/12/05/wyadup-to-cape-naturaliste-the-return-leg-of-a-sarah-shuffle/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1096.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACampsite viewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1090.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1076.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne for Vik :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1070.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1069.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1064.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121201-tsjw1063.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121204-mapwyadupcapenaturaliste.jpg20121204-MapWyadupCapeNaturalisteRoutehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121202-img_0395.jpg20121202-IMG_0395erewwhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121202-img_0393.jpg20121202-IMG_0393ffdd2012-12-12T12:05:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/route-notes-australia/2012-12-05T13:37:38+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2012/12/04/90km-before-lunchtime-the-kep-track-trying-to-keep-up-with-the-lads/2012-12-04T04:11:23+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/11/19/with-summer-comes-wind/2012-12-05T14:12:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/11/11/trails-fire-roads-and-a-touch-of-bushbashing/2012-11-11T14:48:25+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/30/fettling-the-birth-of-a-new-bicycle-part-3-fat-tail/2013-04-09T22:33:25+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/28/jarrahdale-early-start/2012-10-28T22:45:28+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/23/weekday-kalamunda-solitude/2012-10-24T17:22:48+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/18/sarah-cycling-across-scotland/2012-10-18T01:00:34+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/13/sarah-mount-keen-not-by-the-fungal-road/2012-10-17T06:25:52+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/10/13/sarah-do-not-try-this-at-home/2012-10-21T06:00:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/09/28/sarah-englands-green-and-pleasant-lands/2012-09-30T00:37:00+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/09/30/across-wales-sunshine-and-sog/2012-10-02T08:27:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/09/06/sarah-bike-shuffles/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0075.jpgIMG_0075Coming in for landing at Bob's Crossinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0072.jpgIMG_0072Typical Murray River conditions: brown water, glass-like stillness, perfect reflectionshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0071.jpgIMG_0071A 5.1m long bright red sea kayak is a bit harder to disguise....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0070.jpgIMG_0070Bike shuffling technique. Sometimes the crux is being able to find the bike again myself!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0069.jpgIMG_0069In a moment of sheer brilliance, I forget to leave my paddle upstream with my boat and end up having to carry it back up by bike. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0062.jpgIMG_0062I'm a cheap date, really. A picnic table with a view at sunset is my idea of luxury.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0061.jpgIMG_0061Making camp: my stuff, spread out in the huthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/img_0060.jpgIMG_0060Helena Campsite, one of the Bibbulmun's 3-sided shelters with its accompanying rain water tank. My home for the night.2012-09-13T11:43:57+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/24/sarah-the-hardest-part/2015-09-09T14:37:20+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/23/tasmania-lake-st-clair-and-a-taste-of-the-overland/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-photo-2.jpg20120822-photo (2)And finally a phone-photo as evening draws in after a 700 photo time-lapse experiment drains the 'proper' camera battery a shot too soonhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0486.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGreen-brown-red. Colours to saturate the eyes and divert from trail-attentionhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0485.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALight illuminates the hollow remnant - post ground-fallhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0482.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0481.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn amongst the moss - a flash of redhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0475.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn places it feels as if the moss holds the trees up - until it doesn't - moans and potentially pre-fall creaks promote a watchful eye and reluctance to dawdle in the shady wind-shelterhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0469.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAn older style of track marking - the blaze - soon to be lost herehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0466.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALusher - plenty of wetness around to keep it this wayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0463.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARemember to look down! https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120822-tsjw0461.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2012-08-28T13:02:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/21/inspiration-photography-from-the-space-between-places/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/034.jpg034https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/033.jpg033https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/024.jpg024https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/016.jpg016https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/008.jpg008https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/007.jpg007https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/006.jpg006https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/005.jpg005https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/003.jpg003https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/0011.jpg0012012-08-20T10:53:09+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/19/sarah-while-the-cats-away/2012-08-20T07:30:25+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/16/snowdon-memory-of-trips-past/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20060421-r0010880.jpg20060421-R0010880A resting spot before heading down again. Snowdon with a view2012-08-16T15:42:24+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/12/munda-biddi-a-weekend-of-contrasts/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120812-tsjw04131.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120812-tsjw04091.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120812-tsjw0414.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120812-tsjw0413.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120812-tsjw0409.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120811-tsjw0408.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWattle - yellow on greenhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120811-tsjw0406.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANearing the Dandelup Munda Biddi hut, we head past Whittakers Mill - the trail's pretty much submerged in fallen Wattle trees - yellow everywhere. Here with a bit of classic red dirt to contrasthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120811-tsjw0401.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe evening light on some softer stuff. The big fat tyres just roll in whatever direction you point them. Great for some mushy sections that a couple of motorbikes tore up earlier in the day.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120811-tsjw0400.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA well lit trail-sign. We managed to go astray (just a little) trying to follow the map rather than the up to date arrows by-passing the boggy patch we ended up zen-navigating through...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120811-tsjw0396.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2013-01-25T02:54:04+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/05/fettling-the-birth-of-a-new-bicycle-part-2/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120802-tsjw0328.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0360.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0352.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0369.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0367.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0363.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0361.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0343.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0337.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120801-tsjw0323.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2012-08-05T15:09:47+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/bicycles/fat-bike-build/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0342.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWith the offset wheel build, on a frame with a 17.5mm rear offset to allow the chain to pass the large tyre to a normal cassette, the hub is 35mm to one side of the 'normal' symmetrical dish. Setting the micrometer at 35mm means that the pointer is one reference mark and the main body of the micrometer is the other.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120804-tsjw0341.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMy dishing 'tool', taken from the WheelPro building guide. The digital micrometer is held against the cardboard and acts as the 'contact point' against the hub.2012-08-05T14:52:06+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/05/2076/2012-08-06T01:07:44+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/08/05/a-maiden-ride/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120805-tsjw0373.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe big tyres suit the trails well - and there's enough squish so that I'm not slowed down at all, compared to riding a dual suspension bike. In fact, I prefer the feel the new bike gives me.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120805-tsjw0370.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe red dirt against a mostly black bike. The water bottle really does say 'do not drink'...2012-08-05T11:37:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/31/fettling-the-birth-of-a-new-bicycle-part-1/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0317.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0309.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0307.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0306.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0304.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0302.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0300.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0299.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0298.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120731-tsjw0297.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2012-08-05T00:42:06+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/31/back-in-the-boats-a-lazy-sunday-afternoon-riversea-paddle/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0295.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALong neglected, my Dagger Cortez sea kayak finally gets an outing, many months after our return. It had been exercised in our absence by it's custodians, but something a bit more adventurous that this meander needs planning now...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0293.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOut and round to South Beach as the sun sinks - timed rather well in the end. A winters day means the sand's ours alonehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0288.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0283.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATugs at rest, with the Maritime Museum in the distancehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0282.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHeading into Fremantle Harbour, but from a different viewpoint.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120729-tsjw0276.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADodging the traffic on the river2012-07-30T16:55:19+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/18/jarrahdale-a-gallery-of-greenness/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0231.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0230.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0229.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0227.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0224.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0222.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120715-tsjw0220.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120714-tsjw0218.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120714-tsjw02171.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120714-tsjw0217.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2012-07-21T08:54:45+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/10/reckoning-tour-testing-a-surly-big-dummy/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20101008-dsc_0494.jpg20101008-DSC_0494The longer wheelbase keeping the front mech. away from the back wheel meant that mud didn't stop play gear-wise (even with a conventional, non-Rohloff drivechain), though I wasn't moving much faster than Sarah at this point. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20111122-dsc_2008.jpg20111122-DSC_2008Mind you, when I couldn't ride something it took a fair amount of brute strength and willpower to get it past some obstacleshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20111024-p1010837.jpg20111024-P1010837Once I got used to the length, there wasn't much I couldn't ride. The long wheelbase meant that uphill with less than good traction was much easier to just 'ride' than a normal bike.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20111018-p1010498.jpg20111018-P1010498Overall - the BD kept up with pretty much all I asked of ithttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20111218-dsc_0167.jpg20111218-DSC_0167After a few more broken central american kickstands I gave up, and learnt to load the bike without one. The process wasn't without profanities as Sarah can attest - when the whole system keeled over leaving me less than happy...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20110111-dsc_0162.jpg20110111-DSC_0162One casualty of the abuse meted out on the BD was the kickstand. Here the frame-plate is being welded back into place after breaking away (the only structural frame problem I had with the BD and apparently a valid warranty issue if I wanted to swap my BD frame for a new one).https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120609-tsjw0090.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother 'after' shot. My Porcelain Rocket seat-stay pack - after 20,000km and a central american wet season the zips still work. I used it for tools, spares and regular access stuff such as sunscreen.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120609-tsjw0091.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter 23,000km and 18 months this is what they look like. You can see the imprint of the BD frame, the modifications to the rear tensioning straps and that I needed to resew some other attachment points. It's also worth noting that the single drainage hole isn't enough and water tends to collect at either end - an improvement would be extra holes there too.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120203-dsc_0034.jpg20120203-DSC_0034Sarah was quite keen for us to ride the last 2000km or so like this. Probably quite possible, and a good use of the BD, but not to be :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120203-dsc_0036.jpg20120203-DSC_0036Although it didn't get used much, the front rack did come in handy for carrying Sarah's rear panniers when her bike was stolen in Mendoza. We then swapped it onto her replacement bike. I was un-used to the handling with loaded panniers and wouldn't choose to do it again2014-02-14T02:13:11+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/09/whimsical-bike-diy/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120709-tsjw0215.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAInspired by a more industrial multi-level version in the kitchen at Mayapedal, Guatemala - we now have a new drying rack. Off-true front wheel courtesy of Mercer Cycles' junk pile and worn out brake cables from our bin :-)2012-07-25T09:25:19+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/07/01/canada-toronto-vancouver-island-and-some-work/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120630-tsjw0194.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand across a few skinny-bridges for good measure, before sadly needing to drop me off at the airport to get back to Australiahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120630-tsjw0187.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA(photo S.Felter)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120630-tsjw0183.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo we head back to the woodshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120630-tsjw0177-2.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter an early start as a black bike, it's now (very) red. My main reason for wanting to try it is that it sports a Rohloff Internally-geared hub - something I've got planned for a future bike.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120630-tsjw0169.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA glutton for punishment, Scott swaps tyres on his beautiful Hunter Cycles 29er to allow me a chance to try ithttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120629-tsjw0167.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA visit to the local bike shops gets me a fork-mount friendly bottle cage (or two) and lots of spokes (ready for fat-bike wheel construction)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120629-tsjw0166.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAScott and Naomi's garden not only provides edible things, but beauty. Their connections with the arts and Scott's past life as a ceramic artist are the foundation of a great collection of individual crockery - none identical.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120629-tsjw0163.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAblurring as he passeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120629-tsjw0158.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbefore swooping back down againhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/20120629-tsjw0156.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot one to let trail-time go to waste, Vik heads off up a nearby bit of down2012-07-09T00:47:24+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/09/27/ecuador-riobamba-to-loja-via-macas-zamora-and-the-orient/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/riobamba_loja_elevation_profile.jpegRiobamba_Loja_Elevation_profileA brief experiment in GPS recording - the elevation profile of the Oriente route from Riobamba to Lojahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1438.jpgDSC_1438Did we mention that it rained a lot? Sarah riding, briefly unwaterproofed, past one of many road-side torrents on the way up to Lojahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1437.jpgDSC_1437From Yantzaza onwards the heavens treated us to almost continuous rain. The Rio Zamora was pretty wild, and waterfalls abounded from all sides as we chugged our way upwards having willed ourselves to leave Zamora in the afternoon rainhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1436_2.jpgDSC_1436_2Central and South American fire stations (Bomberos) have a reputation for cycle tourist hospitality. We'd previously dabbled with this a couple of times in Costa Rica (Batán) and Panamá (Arraiján), but we seriously indulged as we worked out way along the E45. Many thanks to the Bomberos of Sucúa, Gualaquiza and Yantzaza :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1432.jpgDSC_1432Our spirits lifted with the myriad mariposas that coloured the road and air as we worked our way up the climb before free-wheeling down to Gualaquiza.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1427_2.jpgDSC_1427_2San Juan Bosco nestles beneath the imposing Pio Monte amid much lushness. This "middle" section of our oriental diversion was slower riding than we might have liked, but stayed high enough to give cool nights to aid our sleep. In contrast to our central american rainy season insomnolencehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1426.jpgDSC_1426As growing darkness threatened us with benightment near Limón, we spotted a brightly painted, but empty wooden shack discarded by the road-builders. It turned out to be nicely tent sized and even had a porch for watching the clouds rise as the sun rosehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1424_2.jpgDSC_1424_2"Let's care for the trees, they are the lungs of the earth" The whole of highway E45 is lined by signs like this. Ecuador has laws that give rights to the environment, meaning that habitats cannot be destroyed without significant effort.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1421_2.jpgDSC_1421_2Rio Upano, that runs through the Ecuadorian Orient is scene of tourist white-water adventures. We ride on byhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1419.jpgDSC_1419Some of the bridges didn't stand up to the river flow... This one was being replaced as we rode past2012-06-30T19:49:28+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/02/sarah-bereft/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/22072010020.jpg22072010020half a bike - a week before leaving for Canadahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/15072010006.jpg15072010006Bare bones2012-06-12T14:06:16+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/06/10/a-different-viewpoint-tales-of-us-told-by-others/2012-06-10T02:57:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/19/argentina-mendoza-to-junin-de-los-andes-southward-trucking/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0121.jpgDSC_0121A great bit of river-side camping to finish the day. Good swimming toohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0118_2.jpgDSC_0118_2Aluminé existed, and provided a birthday lunch for me and food to head us on our way :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0117_2.jpgDSC_0117_2Another non-existant place-name came and went, but the riding was great, if a bit more populated - heading for Aluminé past yet more prime fishing.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0114.jpgDSC_0114The dirt road heading up and over towards Lago Aluminé was quiet, well surfaced and just what we needed. Monkey Puzzle trees abound along with 3m tall road markers as the whole area is deeply snow-bound in winter. For us it had campsite aplenty and even some downhill tailwinds later in the afternoon. Still no food shops.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0108.jpgDSC_0108The next stage in the masterplan is to spend 40km or so heading uphill towards the Chilean border at Pino Hachado. Our map confidently told us that there were towns along the way, so we blithely bought the bare minimum in Loncopue. They didn't exist, but being of excessive stubbornness we unanimously elected to head straight up to the pass rather than make a 20km side-trip into Las Lajas. Our lack of lunch wasn't helped by a stout headwind and road-signs telling us about 'official' hills....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0106_2.jpgDSC_0106_2The road loosely follows the river valley - dropping down into the gullies formed by every entering stream. Great fishing territory apparently - we're not suitably equipped.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0100_2.jpgDSC_0100_2Smaller road options continue south of Chos Malal, feinting towards Chile at Paso Pichachen, then southwards at El Cholar. Shortly after leaving Ruta 40 a couple of locals made us an offer too good to refuse - a shorter, even quieter route. A 20km round-trip later it turned out to be a dead-end... Not happy Jan!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0098_2.jpgDSC_0098_2Then down again https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0092_2.jpgDSC_0092_2Claudio, Jessica and her cousin are up here for a while getting away from Chos Malal. Claudio tells us that he once took 9 hours to ride up here on a bicycle - without gears. Between sips of maté they take great care to tell us of every up, down and turn between us and the big smoke. Amazing, unhesitating kindness and hospitality. (Photo S. Hedges)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0084_2.jpgDSC_0084_2Morning gold-light and swathes of different birds disturbed by our tent-opening-waking2012-06-03T15:09:49+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/05/27/margaret-river-climbing-a-return/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120527-tsjw0076.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAn unknown climber takes the more direct route down the cliff, rather than walking the longer way roundhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120526-tsjw0072.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEvening light back-lights. Climbing effort has dwindled https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120526-tsjw0063.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAll the while, the surflines build and swoop behind ushttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120526-tsjw0060.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALeaving sun-soaked glowing cliffs to us alonehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120526-tsjw0051.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASea-cliff time. Glorious weather too. Uni-groups on Saturday melt by mid-afternoonhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120526-tsjw0050.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWillyabrup, a few hours south of Perth on the edge of the Margaret River wine region hosts our weekend communion with the rock2012-05-31T22:47:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/05/20/sarah-sunny-weekend-in-mid-may/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_0047.jpgIMG_0047Unenthusiastic concerning a repeat, I opt for one of the Munda Biddi's huts the second night. Note the rain water tanks - long trips in this dry parched land would be exceedingly difficult without. I'm in at 4 and slightly at a loss as to what to do with myself. I remember walking the Bibbulmun Track all those years ago, when I often got to camp even earlier in the day, and wonder what on earth I did with all that bush time and solitude.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_00371.jpgIMG_0037Drying things out at breakfast time. The first night, I sleep under the stars, thinking my bivvy bag will be adequate protection from the dew. I turn out to have been overly optimistic on this score and pass an uncomfortable night in a sodden sleeping bag.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_0037.jpgIMG_0037Drying things out at breakfast time. The first night, I sleep under the stars, thinking my bivvy bag will be adequate protection from the dew. I turn out to have been overly optimistic on this score and pass an uncomfortable night in a sodden sleeping bag.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_0040.jpgIMG_0040A section of track I'm very happy to be going down rather than up!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_0033.jpgIMG_0033The typical south-west WA "bush". With apologies for the iPhone photos. Hopefully you've come to expect something better from us. This was not a DSLR-lugging trip, in fact I doubt I'd've paused for photos at all had not a blog post begun to take shape in my mind.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/img_0029.jpgIMG_0029Groovy street art just near Midland train station, a testimony to a growing community interest in all things bike relatedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/bike-parking.jpgBike parkinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/munda-biddi-hut.jpgMunda Biddi huthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/drying-time.jpgDrying timehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/rutted-track.jpgRutted track2012-05-27T13:39:13+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/05/17/a-conversation-over-a-kickstand-identity-and-cycling-in-the-post-trip-world/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120514-tsjw0038.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEvening home-comings, assuming I make it out in time for the dregs of daylight, tend to be mellower. The city beaches - spaces for walking and on some days optimistic surfing. In summer, throngs of kite-surfers dominate, but winter's brought calm.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120514-tsjw0035.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWith the passing of summer dryness, the rain catches me most days. Mostly it sweeps in off the sea, passing Rottnest Island and the ships and tankers awaiting an approach and chance to disgorge.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120511-p5110006.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFremantle's working harbour has an industrial soul close to that of Tyneside in my pre-Australia erahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120510-p5100013.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPerth cycle commuting - heading the 'south of the river' route home in closing dusk2012-05-20T16:14:17+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/05/10/a-change-of-context-and-a-comment-on-touring-styles/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/20120415-img_0018.jpg20120415-IMG_00182012-05-10T13:55:15+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/04/25/munda-biddi-an-overnight-from-jarrahdale/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0015.jpgIMG_0015All the way back we're trying to keep up with Leio, who's got a yearning for lunch. Despite a bike that doesn't really fit, he's having a great time. Even after losing some skin in a nasty encounter with some deep pea gravel.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0014.jpgIMG_0014Back the way we came - this time - following the line of an old railway through the forest, passing a WWII internment camp, returning to our cars at Jarrahdale.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0013.jpgIMG_0013During a pleasantly lazy start the next morning I manage to get on with some of my own repairs. Swapping out the jockey wheels from my rear derailleur - totally and utterly worn out after the Americas triphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0012.jpgIMG_0012As the shadows lengthen Ben and Rachel pause to mend a flat. The bush surrounds us with bird calls and peace. A little further along we spot 'roos for the first time since getting back to Australiahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0529_2.jpgDSC_0529_2There's lots of pea gravel meaning that big tyres are the way forward, helping to minimise pushing episodes and face-plant potentialhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0010.jpgIMG_0010The trail has a string of huts civilised distances apart. As well as picnic benches and sleeping platforms they even have bicycle repair stands. This all meant that Sarah managed to get all she needed into her seat pack. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0526_2.jpgDSC_0526_2Winding its way south via a mixture of technical singletrack and less demanding rail-routes along with quiet dirt road; the Munda Biddi trail is a great way to get out of town for a day, weekend or longer.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/img_0001.jpgIMG_0001Before venturing forth a little reconstruction is needed. Sarah's bouncy bike had donated a number of parts to her, in the end, ill-fated touring bike.2012-04-25T14:34:04+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/04/22/sarah-afterwords/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0532_2.jpgDSC_0532_2Funky new bike parking has sprung up around town during our absencehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0530_2.jpgDSC_0530_2The mango-coloured mountain bike pictured here is my current "commute bike" (with trailer to take the down sleeping bags to the laundromat!) The green Indi 500 is so exactly the same as the bike that I had growing up that I wistfully wonder whether it is the actual same one still in circulationhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0002.jpgDSC_0002Our much loved Jasper has made such an impression on our tenants, who have been looking after him for us, that they are tempted to kidnap himhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0524_2.jpgDSC_0524_2"How the heck do we get out of this car park?"2012-04-24T04:38:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/04/04/the-wood-between-the-worlds/2012-04-19T07:06:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/chile/2012-04-04T19:06:50+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/about/partners-in-travel/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0520_2.jpgDSC_0520_2Jeff and Cat caught us up a day or two before Punta Arenas. With both having an enormous travel and adventure experience, we had a great time pondering and chasing memories.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0483_2.jpgDSC_0483_2We first met Raphael in La Paz, and again when were just heading on a panaderia mission in El Chaltén. To our envy he rode out from his front door in Venezuela and has busked his way round South America. He also seems to have a special ability to get free accommodation - mainly with the Bomberos. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0386_2.jpgDSC_0386_2I'd waved at a pair of cyclists emerging from a house one morning south of Cochrane. We coincided again for the boat from Villa O'Higgins, after which we got to ride with them for a few days and do some much needed headwind sharing. Marta and especially Thomas were enviably bilingual and shared a eye for creative overnight observatorio camping too. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0341_2.jpgDSC_0341_2Marie and Jo were already ensconced in the wonderful Casa de Ciclista in Mañihuales on the Carretera Austral when we sogged through the door. We rode together briefly, then crossed and happily recrossed paths on our way southhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0173.jpgDSC_0173photo S.Hedgeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0169.jpgDSC_0169photo S.Hedgeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0168_2.jpgDSC_0168_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_0539.jpgDSC_0539https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1836_2.jpgDSC_1836_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/javiersylvia.jpgJavierSylvia2012-04-04T11:37:03+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/16/for-sale-sarahs-bike/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0041.jpgDSC_00412012-04-04T10:48:38+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/04/02/chile-el-calafate-to-punta-arenas-torres-new-friends-and-an-ending/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0503_2.jpgDSC_0503_2Slowly the gusts settled to our rear quarter. The little cover here had been burnt off in the recent fires leaving large areas of blackened branches over apparently lifeless soilhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0519_2.jpgDSC_0519_2And amazingly, the only wind generators bigger than the 'personal' house based ones appear just short of Punta Arenas, within sight of Tierra del Fuegohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0518_2.jpgDSC_0518_2Not much to do other than pedal - the landscapes are barely undulating, sometimes with low scrub and sheep - and fleeting sunshine. Cold too, though I slightly too resolutely stick to shorts and sandals, as much to make an unknown point to myself as anything else.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0517_2.jpgDSC_0517_2At the junctions with distant estancias along the road to Punta Arenas, are these slightly bizarre bus-shelters. They do work perfectly as lunch-stops, and as we're joined by more cyclists, we find they fit 4 quite nicelyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0516_2.jpgDSC_0516_2Approaching Puerto Natales the countryside opens up and draws us back to our previous trips to Shetland and Orkneyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0515_21.jpgDSC_0515_2Another final - Sarah leaving behind the last bit of dirt road a little north of Puerto Nataleshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0515_2.jpgDSC_0515_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0510_2.jpgDSC_0510_2Like Cerros Fitzroy and Torre, looking back seems to inspire more than the approachhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0504_2.jpgDSC_0504_2Slowly the gusts settled to our rear quarter. The little cover here had been burnt off in the recent fires leaving large areas of blackened branches over apparently lifeless soilhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/dsc_0498_2.jpgDSC_0498_2The calm lasts about as long as it takes us to pack our bikes. The morning is spent slowly working our way round and about the lakes. Stunningly strong gusts from all possible directions sometimes propel us forwards, but much more frequently topple us sideways or leave us crouched over the handlebars clutching the brakes to stop ourselves being flung backwards. Water is whipped up and flung about to create rainbow glitters all around us2012-04-02T18:18:02+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/18/chileargentina-villa-ohiggins-to-el-chalten-lakes-mountains-and-singletrack/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0410_2.jpgDSC_0410_2The highpoint of the day and the last point before axes and crampons are needed – maybe some other day?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0406.jpgDSC_0406Some not so happy...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0405.jpgDSC_0405Unable to contemplate an ‘out and back’, a circuit is made, passing some onlookershttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0400_2.jpgDSC_0400_2For the first time since northern México, I go walking – and find that my knees and leg muscles are not good for much other than cycling at the moment. Cerro Torre inspires thoughts of movement on rock.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0398_2.jpgDSC_0398_2El Chaltén balances precariously on the slippery slopes of tourist-dom, but the disparate collection of houses a little above the cafés and tour boutiques has a more individual and quirky air. “La Casa de Jesús” is home to a constantly changing population of musicians, artists and passing cyclists. I even manage to find an Asturian Gaitero to play tunes with – a supreme joy to both of us – a grace un-looked for.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0373_2.jpgDSC_0373_2The trail opens at a hill-crest and shows us Cerro Fitzroy in all her glory with our second lake below, the Patagonia of our imaginings is there in full measure.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0371_2.jpgDSC_0371_2Another reminder of Tasmania - there is even fagus to prompt pondering of trails walked, and those yet in our future.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0370.jpgDSC_0370Some of it is a bit more soggy. Others who passed that way the next morning said they’d ridden frozen mud, rather that this reminder of Tasmanian bush-walking.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0367_2.jpgDSC_0367_2Then the fun begins – literally. Sarah ghosting along the walking trail down towards Lago del Desierto. We bubble and chatter with enthusiasm for trails past and future as our bikes twist and turn over roots and drops.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0356_2.jpgDSC_0356_2Very nearly all rideable, but with a few steep bits early on, the 2-track heads to the Argentine border.2012-04-02T04:36:52+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/21/argentina-el-chalten-to-el-calafate-wind-and-a-glacier/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0466.jpgDSC_0466The whole complex is serviced by a profuse collection of walkwayshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0451.jpgDSC_0451The glacier, always advancing, fills this gap leading to a spectacular explosion when the head of water bursts throughhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/glaciercalving.jpgGlacierCalvingRegularly breaking off at the leading edgehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0446_2.jpgDSC_0446_2The ice birthed up in the mountainshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0452_2.jpgDSC_0452_2The reason we made this side-trip – the Perito Moreno glacier.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0439.jpgDSC_0439Turning back into the wind on the last stretch towards El Calafate, teamwork prevails. A rotation of leaders, holding their place for a kilometre or two while sheltering those behind transforms the experience for us. Thank you to Marta and Thomas for sharing the work with us.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0437_2.jpgDSC_0437_2Some of the locals running to keep ahead of us – no wandering what type here – Emus.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0430.jpgDSC_0430A disused Observatorio a few km beyond the La Léona Hotel – we cook on the steps before retiring inside for the best sleep we’ve had in quite a while. Safe from the wind – bliss!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0429.jpgDSC_0429Days end, a building sighted – potential shelter, so we duck down the track. It proves one of the best finds of the triphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0426_2.jpgDSC_0426_2Heading east, propelled at more than 30km/hr for long periods by tailwinds we’re glad we’re not fighting. I even accelerate up a hill with my feet on the top-tube!2012-04-02T13:27:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/15/chile-villa-santa-lucia-to-villa-ohiggins-protests-and-hospitality-on-the-carretera-austral/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0322.jpgDSC_0322Villa O’Higgins – a place where you leave your keys in the front doorhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0320_2.jpgDSC_0320_2Lago Cisnes – nearly there. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0318_2.jpgDSC_0318_2Fast lake-side progress - not keen to stop long as more than a 10 second pause attracts a storm of slow moving but persistent mosquitos. Lunch is gobbled clad in clothing layers such that only eyes and mouths are exposed.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0315.jpgDSC_0315That leaves with only 100km left of the Carretera Austral – flat for a while as it works its way upriver. We find a vantage-camp at a mirador (lookout) that leaves a easy day from Villa O’Higgins at road-end. The next morning we’d be hard pressed not to be in the wilds of Tasmaniahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0305_2.jpgDSC_0305_2Our ferry, until today daily due to protest induced fuel shortages, turns out to be back to thrice. We are nearly stranded to wait for the next at Puerto Yungay when I arrived 2 minutes late (but 2 hour early for when we thought it was scheduled). They spot me and turn back.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0293.jpgDSC_0293Most of the traffic is ferry-timed-clumped. Good when the roads aren’t all that widehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0292_2.jpgDSC_0292_2At the beginning of a morning dash to coincide with the Puerto Yungay ferry, the overnight mist lingers, while the peaks glistenhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0284.jpgDSC_0284Harking back Northern Argentina and Bolivia, afternoon rain broods, and we pass only lightly wateredhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0281_2.jpgDSC_0281_2The outflow into Rio Baker a pure dark turquoise shaded by glacial melt – salmon pink bridges contrast.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0277_2.jpgDSC_0277_2We catch Lago General Carrera (the name of its Chilean half) in a glass-like mood2012-03-15T21:14:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/01/argentinachile-junin-de-los-andes-to-villa-santa-lucia-lots-of-lakes-and-cyclists-and-a-little-bit-of-ash/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0192_2.jpgDSC_0192_2Some of it's a bit more tranquil - lunch backdrophttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0180.jpgDSC_0180All the water has to go somewhere - rafting and kayaking are core industries herehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0181_2.jpgDSC_0181_2Glimpses of even higher peaks crick the neck - the impending washes of rain signal camp time. Enter the secret weapon - noone can refuse a request fronted by a baby and a winsome 4 year old who's already learnt to use her dimples to devastating effect...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0176_2.jpgDSC_0176_2Understandably preferring smoother, gentler roads, Andoni still cranks apace up the ripio hills while trying to concentrate on the best line for 4 wheels. Maia chats and sings all the while.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0167_2.jpgDSC_0167_2In Futaleufú, just across the border into Chile we re-meet a cycle-touring family who shared the Belén-chaos with us more than a month and a couple of thousand kilometres ago. Alice has Unai heading for sleep on her back - then to be transferred to Andoni's trailer until the next feed a while down the roadhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0161_2.jpgDSC_0161_2And fleeting patches of blue sky squeezed between the racing cloudshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0162.jpgDSC_0162Beachside Tasmanian-esque colour near our camphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0157_2.jpgDSC_0157_2Thankfully the rain we get is light and well spaced - further west towards Chile things are much wetterhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0156_2.jpgDSC_0156_2A string of interconnected lakes and multiple free official camping lead us through PN Los Alerces.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/dsc_0133_2.jpgDSC_0133_2and the sparkling brilliance after overnight rain2012-03-07T16:06:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/03/06/photography-a-choice-to-make/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/fuji2.jpegfuji2image: dpreviewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/fuji1.jpegfuji1image: dpreviewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/pana2.jpegpana2image: dpreviewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/pana1.jpegPana1image: dpreviewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/olympus3.jpegOlympus3image: dpreviewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/olympus2.jpegOlympus2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/olympus.jpegOlympus2012-06-02T06:22:39+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/22/sarah-home-sweet-home/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0016.jpgDSC_0016Argentinahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0623_2.jpgDSC_0623_2Summer style, inner only on the Maya Pedal roof, Guatemalahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0482.jpgDSC_0482Argentina. Photo: Tom https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_1436_2.jpgDSC_1436_2Camping at the Bomberos, Ecuadorhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0338.jpgDSC_0338Las Lagunas, Bolivia. Photo Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0260.jpgDSC_0260Photo: Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_1049_2.jpgDSC_1049_2Urban camping, one of our less salubrious siteshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0242_2.jpgDSC_0242_2Salar de Uyuni; a fairly memorable campsitehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_00121.jpgDSC_0012Photo: Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0012.jpgDSC_0012Photo: Tom Walwyn2013-01-24T17:45:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/18/sarah-cycling-work-ethic/2012-03-11T22:35:21+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/05/1601/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0042.jpgDSC_0042After a visit to a ferreteria (ironmonger) for some suitable bolts I we swapped the rack to the back, giving the bike better handling and a more 'normal' appearance. The ability to attach the OMM rack to the V-brake mounts means we weren't foiled by a lack of upper pannier rack eyelets.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0040.jpgDSC_0040After a traffic saturated day out of Mendoza we found a finca with some enticing Eucalypt shade. As it was my OMM front rack Sarah was using we started with her stuff racked on the front of the bike.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0037.jpgDSC_0037Although it changes the handling quite a bit, we fitted Sarah's 2 Ortlieb rear panniers and her Porcelain Rocket seat pack onto my OMM front rack. In contrast to other bikes, the problem with the Surly Big Dummy is avoiding the temptation to carry to much stuff - not where to put the bare essentials. In these cases a vast carrying capacity proved very usefulhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0034_2.jpgDSC_0034_2The uses of a Big Dummy - heading off to buy Sarah's new bike. Sarah's wondering if she can get Tom to keep this up all the way to Torres del Paine!2012-02-19T13:31:38+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/08/sarah-a-donde-van/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0192_2.jpgDSC_0192_2The reason I find it so hard to explain where I have come from today. Photo Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0527.jpgDSC_0527Hints if a "destination?" Photo Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0364_2.jpgDSC_0364_2Not going anywhere. Just riding. Photo Tom Walwyn2012-02-03T03:12:23+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/mexico-2/2013-10-11T13:28:21+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/31/argentina-belen-to-mendoza-heat-and-siestas/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0029.jpgDSC_0029After gulch-crowded, twisted climbing culminates at over 3000m, the descent flings us back down to around 1000m at Mendoza. What feels like the first real test of our brakes since Perú sees us overtaking timid tourist cars and grinning broadlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0020.jpgDSC_0020Yet again, taking the smaller road strikes gold. The Viilavicencio road is a good'unhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0014.jpgDSC_0014A worthwhile diversion into Uspallata (siesta again...) for ice-cream (an addiction?) then back out again on the tree-lined blessed coolhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0013_2.jpgDSC_0013_2Nearing the high point south of Barreal the ferocity of the head-wind instantly drains us. Doubting the value of movement too hard won. Camping with all guys out and pegs weighted down with rocks - no hint of a hiding place from the infamous Andean windshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0011_2.jpgDSC_0011_2Continuing south - mountains on either side blending with the skyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0005_2.jpgDSC_0005_2After a siesta mis-timing in Calingasta tempered by ice-cream we ride onwards. Faltering cycling motivation coincides with a sign for Cerro El Alcazar (Fortress Hill) and an atmospheric camping find. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0001_2.jpgDSC_0001_2Once up and tracking parallel to the peaks this is our standard view - lines of snow-capped mountains, low-lying scrub and barely a cloud to interrupt the bluenesshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0542.jpgDSC_0542Believe it or not this road heading up towards Rodeo actually had a brisk tail-wind! Great way to gain height :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0536.jpgDSC_0536Not an illusion. During a hot, empty siesta in Villa Union we meet Sarah and Alex recently ice-cream replete. "You're on mountain bikes. Our old professor is mtb-ing down South America". "Joe Cruz?" we reply and enjoy the plummeting jaws. Small world, we ponder as our routes intersect. Not our pace on tarmac though. The SYTs (Speedy Young Things) stretch the SOFs (Slow Old Farts) out of our comfort zones!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0531.jpgDSC_0531The main Ruta 40 surprises us with a dirt road section up over the Cuesta de Miranda. Red rock with lush green in the valleys tugs our minds Australiawards. A daily weather pattern - massing clouds in mid-afternoon that sometimes deliver their threats2012-02-02T21:04:01+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/02/01/a-journey-derailed/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dsc_0772_2.jpgDSC_0772_2Happier times - gone now2012-02-10T03:35:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/28/sarah-alone/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0002.jpgDSC_00022012-04-20T06:40:19+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/11/sarah-feeding-the-family/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1835.jpgDSC_1835Hollow legs?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1552_2.jpgDSC_1552_2Joe blows the dust off his stove for ushttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0508_2.jpgDSC_0508_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0771_2.jpgDSC_0771_2They "cooked" this for me on "women's day"!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0511.jpgDSC_0511https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1264_21.jpgDSC_1264_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1264_2.jpgDSC_1264_22012-01-31T02:27:05+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/21/limiting-the-limitless-for-now/2012-01-26T11:15:44+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/18/argentina-san-antonio-de-los-cobres-to-belen-isolation-in-uncertainty/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0506.jpgDSC_0506And numbers humble. Only a few kms to go if we stick to the Ruta 40....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0503_2.jpgDSC_0503_2Mountain-high sand dwarfs us and the (now) smooth roadhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0502_2.jpgDSC_0502_2A silhouetted vicuña perched on the brink of a valley-sea of sand with our descent meandering in the background. Soon our passage through isolation will drop back towards human occupation.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0498_2.jpgDSC_0498_2Snow-dusted backdrop to a welcome return to surface-smoothness approaching El Peñon.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0494_2.jpgDSC_0494_2Residual patches of asphalt bounded by rock-gravelhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0491_2.jpgDSC_0491_2Full-layers are rapidly discarded in response to the emerging sunhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0489_2.jpgDSC_0489_2Morning-onward is a different game (minus wind). The landscape feels like a tinted monochrome. Black and white only lacks the azure-sky colour.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0487_2.jpgDSC_0487_2After Antofagasta de la Sierra and a road that skirts multiple areas of spewed volcanic outpouring, the afternoon headwinds combine with a soft surface. As will-power ebbs a pile of rocks offers tent-peg security and a halt.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0480.jpgDSC_0480Enticing holds – for feet and hand, but too easily damaged to afford much vertical gain.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0482.jpgDSC_0482So relax and take an early mark amongst rock-formations too tempting to one who’s been carrying rock-climbing shoes long neglected. Sarah’s cooking turn allows me to create non-cleated tracks in the sand (and a few less marked on the limitingly friable rock).2012-01-19T02:11:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/10/fettling-inadvertent-colour-coordination-sarahs-duster-and-much-redness/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0450.jpgDSC_0450Even the bearings for her pedalling are red! Not our fault - it's just what the shop had. It seems the commercial world is conspiring to coordinate her!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0279.jpgDSC_0279The better-weather outfit also features significant red... I do have to admit that the bar-bag colour is my fault... Also featured are new seat-pack and frame-bag from Scott and Porcelain Rockethttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0255.jpgDSC_0255even the stem-mounted water bottle is red!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0184.jpgDSC_0184The full red-blackness of Sarah in full rain gear2012-01-10T14:26:20+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/21/sarah-are-we-there-yet/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1512_2.jpgDSC_1512_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p1010771.jpgP1010771https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1699_21.jpgDSC_1699_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_17011.jpgDSC_1701https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1566.jpgDSC_1566https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1701.jpgDSC_1701https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1699_2.jpgDSC_1699_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/joecaja3.jpgJoeCaja3Photo: Joe Cruzhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0013.jpgDSC_00132012-01-08T22:01:11+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/01/sarah-no-of-course-i-dont-have-a-website/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tomcajamarca.jpgTomCajamarcahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/sarahwriting1.jpgSarahwriting1https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tomsanagustin.jpgTomSanAgustinhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tomnicoya.jpgTomNicoyahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tomlaesperanza.jpgTomLaEsperanza2012-01-08T22:32:29+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/14/gringolandia/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/p9280156.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEating out - because we canhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0537.jpgDSC_0537Photo: Tom Walwynhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1045.jpgDSC_1045Hostel instead of tenthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/p1050629.jpgP1050629Braving the supermercado (photo: Anna Kortschak)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0500_2.jpgDSC_0500_22012-01-31T02:25:25+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/03/sarah-dogs-with-attitude/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_1235.jpgDSC_1235https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dogafterblood.jpgDogAfterBloodhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/friendlydog.jpgFriendlyDogThis one was a friend - Tierra del Sol/Oaxaca2012-01-08T21:40:41+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/08/20/canadausa-elkford-to-whitefish/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0094.jpgDSC_0094The possie coming down from Whitefish Divide with Glacier NP ahead.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p8160102.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABrute force, and much, much ignorance.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p1010816.jpgP1010816Katherine and "Lolita"https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p1010789.jpgP1010789Creek crossing - disaster about to happen...2012-01-08T21:21:38+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/08/27/usa-whitefish-to-lincoln/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p8260119.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATom thawing out just out of Ovando heading to the Huckleberry Passhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0122.jpgDSC_0122Phil and Sarah on lush single track near Swan river MThttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0139.jpgDSC_0139Rippling river with dappled sunshine - what more could you want?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p8210105.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAKatherine, Phil, Mary and us before Katherine went on and the rest of us went into Big Fork.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0113.jpgDSC_0113Reluctant to leave - Tom Arnone holding court :-)2012-01-08T21:21:09+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/09/06/usa-lincoln-to-lima/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p9050133-version-2.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATom using some downhill through Sagebrush country to take the load off his feet - no sudden stops please!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0164.jpgDSC_0164the "down" from Fleecer ridge - thankfully not wet or muddyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_01571.jpgDSC_0157The "up" to Fleecer ridgehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0148.jpgDSC_0148Sarah herding cows. They must like it, as they see us and come onto the road to be herded.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p8300123.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA hint of the Lava mountain track. A fine day and an unloaded bike would have made it interesting, but for us nerves frayed.2012-01-08T21:20:57+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/09/16/usa-lima-to-pinedale/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0293.jpgDSC_0293The first sign of autumn colours, rattling down from Union Pass to Green River WYhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0264.jpgDSC_0264the Tetons with fresh snow on the topshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0239.jpgDSC_0239Castle Geyser doing its thinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0221.jpgDSC_0221The Grand Prismatic Spring - made the detour worth doinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_02171.jpgDSC_0217Trees killed by the Grand Prismatic Spring. We really hadn't expected the weather to be this good.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0202.jpgDSC_0202The road from Lima to Red Rock Pass. This part had sunshine over us and less headwind.2012-01-08T21:20:45+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/09/21/usa-pinedale-to-rawlins/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0325.jpgDSC_0325predawn at A&M reservoirhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0306.jpgDSC_0306camp at Diagnus wellhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0297.jpgDSC_0297Cruising in the desert2012-01-08T21:20:29+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/09/25/usa-rawlins-to-steamboat-springs/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0350.jpgDSC_0350The mend with reinforcing plate addedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0345.jpgDSC_0345The break with jury righttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0337.jpgDSC_0337Aspen Alleyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0333.jpgDSC_0333Our wet campsite the following morning. We took the inner out to keep it dry for the first time - worked well.2012-01-08T21:20:17+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/09/27/usa-steamboat-springs-to-silverthorne/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0365.jpgDSC_0365The Colorado river doing its thing - full of people on rafts enjoying the indian summer weatherhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0359.jpgDSC_0359A gratutious Aspen shot - there are quite a lot of them round here :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0355.jpgDSC_0355Tom grinning because he can't feel his lower legs any more while fording a river2012-01-08T21:20:05+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/10/04/usa-silverthorne-to-del-norte/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0425.jpgDSC_0425Some of the local Del Norte rock. We'll be on some lower level stuff!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0423.jpgDSC_0423There are very few intact road signs in this part of the world - target practice for hunting season we assume...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0401.jpgDSC_0401Droving cattle, Colorado style.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0377.jpgDSC_0377Our standard bedtime view :-)2012-01-08T21:19:54+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/10/13/usa-del-norte-to-cuba/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0536.jpgDSC_0536Our guardian angelshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0494.jpgDSC_0494Caliche - 3km in 3 hours with much cursinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0489.jpgDSC_0489melting snow and climbing hillshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0480.jpgDSC_0480Colorado autumn colours - Horca from the road to La Manga passhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0461.jpgDSC_0461A happy climbing pair2012-01-08T21:19:42+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/10/25/usa-cuba-to-silver-city/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0637.jpgDSC_0637The bike house front fence - Andrew's twist to what your eyes tell you vs your assuming brainhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0550.jpgDSC_0550Very pretty, but we don't like thorns much at all.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0589.jpgDSC_0589Red to replace gray with peeling bitshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0588.jpgDSC_0588Petroglyphs - one of many hidden away up in the Mesas south of Grantshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0577.jpgDSC_0577Hugo, our host in Grants suggesting that our tent could do with some reinforcement to come up to the local standard. Cliff dwellings near the Mal Pais alternate south of Grantshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0555.jpgDSC_0555Camp - just a spot on a ridge off the sandy track winding through the desert with space all aroundhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_05391.jpgDSC_0539Wiggly tracks in the sand - to ride or push. Sarah pondering the eternal questionhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0537.jpgDSC_0537Sarah explaining that a Surly Big Dummy isn't a Harley to the nice man in Cuba2012-01-08T21:19:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/11/08/usa-silver-city-to-silver-city-via-antelope-wells/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0671_2.jpgDSC_0671_2Riding alongside the interstate before a blessed turn towards Hachita and the border. This stretch gave washboard AND lots of traffic. The road cyclists are welcome to keep busy roads.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0676_2.jpgDSC_0676_2Tom thinking supper thoughts at our last camp (well off the road) before the Mexican border (at the first attempt)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0667_2.jpgDSC_0667_2Avoiding sewing holes in tires or feet with these things seems a good ideahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0664_2.jpgDSC_0664_2Yuccas poised to menace passing cyclistshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0659.jpgDSC_0659Jay, Bill and Jack of Gila Hike and Bike thinking they'd seen the last of us...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0656_2.jpgDSC_0656_2Puppetry central - all those with any urge to create enter here.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0651_2.jpgDSC_0651_2Tom computing, unaware of those watching and plotting his down-fallhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0646_2.jpgDSC_0646_2Sarah's new frame bag from Scott/Porcelain Rocket2012-01-08T21:19:18+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/11/12/usa-silver-city-to-columbus-via-antelope-wells-again/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0691_2.jpgDSC_0691_2Our bikes at the border, you'll have to take our word that we were there too. The border in Columbus looked similar, but with more people.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0690_2.jpgDSC_0690_2Approaching the metropolis that is Antelope Wells. Probably worth going a different way if you want a man at the mexican immigration booth2012-01-08T21:19:04+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/11/15/mexico-columbuslas-palomas-to-nuevo-casas-grandes/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0698_2.jpgDSC_0698_2The fluffy cotton road-sides near Ascension (CHIH)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0695_2.jpgDSC_0695_2Dried chillis and cotton are the local road-side litter. Unfortunately the bud-light cans and PET bottles are much more plentifulhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0701_2.jpgDSC_0701_2A moment aside from the trucks - they're mostly very considerate of us thankfully2012-01-08T21:18:46+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/11/23/mexico-nuevo-casas-grandes-to-creel/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0785_2.jpgDSC_0785_2Some of the traffic doesn't move quite as slowly as the rickety logging trucks. At key points the Virgin Mary and a little shrine is there to remind people to slow down...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0783_2.jpgDSC_0783_2The traffic on the road to Creel varies from Federal Police to many mechanically dubious lorries precariously laden with timber. They grind up and down the hills not much faster than we do.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0781_2.jpgDSC_0781_2The traffic on the road to Creel varies from Federal Police to many mechanically dubious lorries precariously laden with timber. They grind up and down the hills not much faster than we do.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/elheraldodechihuahua.jpgelheraldodechihuahuaEl Heraldo de Chihuahua with us on the front page...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0780_2.jpgDSC_0780_2The El Heraldo boys found us again and closed in for the in depth interview. my spanish was up to the basics, but possibly not what they had in mind.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0771_21.jpgDSC_0771_2Alvaro pondering a quick escape from apples and cattle on my bike before leaving us to continue our journey to Creel.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0756_2.jpgDSC_0756_2What can you do when the road's blocked by a parade? Sarah shelling peanuts...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0753_2.jpgDSC_0753_2The head of the parade celebrating the centenary of the 1910 Mexican revolution in Madera. They were still coming past an hour laterhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0748_2.jpgDSC_0748_2The paved road south of El Largo was no less windy than the dirt. At least the steep uphill sections weren't strewn with fist sized rocks adding balance challenging spice.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0730_21.jpgDSC_0730_2Winding dirt roads passed through river beds and lots of ups and downs. Similar to the best of the US part of our journey.2012-01-08T21:18:33+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/12/02/mexico-creel-to-urique/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_08691.jpgDSC_0869Sarah hard at work grinding our coffee for the few days out of the canyonhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0865_2.jpgDSC_0865_2A nice river beach about 12km down the Rio Urique. Decent sized fish and beautiful morning and evening light.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0853.jpgDSC_0853Our campspot at Entre Amigos in Urique. We've arrived a bit too early for the full glory of the organic garden produce, but the grapefruit here has to be tasted to be believed.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0852.jpgDSC_0852A beautiful morning drenched in spectacular views - Sarah keeping a healthy distance from the drophttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0848.jpgDSC_0848Our road down to Uriquehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0840_2.jpgDSC_0840_2Meandering along one of the easier stretches - no tall trucks along here :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0836_2.jpgDSC_0836_2Sarah thankful that this truck passed her on a wide stretch of road2012-01-08T21:18:18+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/12/09/mexico-urique-to-balleza/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0037.jpgDSC_0037No amount of tyre technology can protect against Mesquite thorns - the ground surrounding the road to Balleza were liberally covered...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0031_2.jpgDSC_0031_2The road from Cororeachi repeatedly crossed the river. Some fords we prudently walked, but others invited the chance of a topple - avoided elegantly this time.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0027_2.jpgDSC_0027_2With such tight switch-backs that the trucks using this road have to do 3-point turns on every corner, the descent before Cororeachi wouldn't be fun without good brakes.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0025_2.jpgDSC_0025_2Creating the breakfast of kings at our cliff-top campsite shortly before Cororeachi.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0017_2.jpgDSC_0017_2Lunch at the top of the hardest climb we've done.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0013_2.jpgDSC_0013_2Sarah on the move - the rideable 'line' is much harder to find on the corners and switchbackshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0010_2.jpgDSC_0010_2Loose dust, fist-sized rocks and hot sunshine make the climb out of the canyon a test of mental and physical stamina. This is one of the easier looking upper parts.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0883.jpgDSC_0883We'd set up our camp on one of the few tent-sized pieces of ground part-way up the climb from Guapalina when these two Tuhumaran indian girls stopped to pick fruit from a tree near our tent. We were then gravely and silently examined before they waved and walked bare-foot on up the road.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0876_2.jpgDSC_0876_2The Guapalyna ford was only just above ankle deep with the water not unwelcome in the heat of the morning at 500m elevation.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0875_2.jpgDSC_0875_2Making our way down-river from Urique. This short, sharp climb is dwarfed by the slopes of Cerro de Ventana that the first part of the route out of the canyon takes.2012-01-08T21:18:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/12/16/mexico-balleza-to-tepehuanes/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0062.jpgDSC_0062In the midst of a road verge rendered monochrome by vehicle dust there was a burst of startling Christmas colour, complete with a small nativity scene.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0057_2.jpgDSC_0057_2In the midst of tortuous rock-strewn and dust-deep roads we came across a large truck that had sprouted legs. Caught on a particularly steep hair-pin, this truck was a match in length for any that fill Mexico's paved highways.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0056_2.jpgDSC_0056_2The rock strewn tracks through the Sierras are known to be hard on bikes. Tom puzzling out a way to fix a broken trailer with the ghost of Abiquiu/Cuba haunting us again....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0884_2.jpgDSC_0884_2In the last 30km before Guanacevi a local cattle-guard design genius has been at work. It may be possible that having the bars in the direction of travel uses less metal, but we challenge anyone to ride across one on a bicycle. Some have logs instead of recycle rail-tracks, and the majority are very loose indeed...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0051_2.jpgDSC_0051_2The area around La Rosilla has a reputation as one of the coldest places in the Sierras. Most of the streams have ice in the mornings as we pass and we're glad we tend to camp on ridges.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0044_2.jpgDSC_0044_2The wonder of running water - Sarah washing clothes at a lunchstop on the Balleza/El Vergel road short-cut2012-01-08T21:17:55+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2010/12/23/mexico-tepehuanes-to-durango/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0073_2.jpgDSC_0073_2Between Canatlan and Durango the railway passes through some wetlands with lots of apple orchards. The surrounding sierras border the flatlands.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0070.jpgDSC_0070On the highway near the the old railway there are some suspiciously large and robust fence posts. Maybe the better to withstand the dry-season brush burning.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0069_2.jpgDSC_0069_2Leaving Santiago Papasquiaro behind using a dirt-road route suggested by the Coconos Salvajeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc00298.jpgDSC00298We are challenged to imitate Wild Turkeys, and not wanting to judge our middles, will let the viewer call our successhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0895.jpgDSC_0895Once we'd relaxed and opted for the path of least resistance minor interruptions such as absent bridges weren't a problem :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0890_2.jpgDSC_0890_2Sarah pondering the narrow railway sleeper that bridges the gap in the first bridge after Tepehuanes. In hind-sight there was a farm road that bypassed this, but we were being "pure" and trying to stick to the actual railway - a fine example of "we're going to make this thing work, no matter what!"2012-01-08T21:17:43+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/01/25/mexico-san-luis-de-la-paz-to-mineral-del-chico/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0271_2.jpgDSC_0271_2A rock shot - Mineral del Chico has lots of limestone outcrops dotted around the hill-tops. Tom couldn't be dissuaded from sampling some of this. Sarah isn't sure that the cold hands were worth it this time, but Tom was smiling a lot so that helped a bit. His mission is to find some warmer rock for next time.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0254_2.jpgDSC_0254_2La Laguna de Metztitlan - the epicentre of a large irrigation system growing a cornucopia of vegetables. Also a weekend tourist destination from Pachuca and Mexico City. More importantly, it and the land up river is FLAT! Wonders :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0248.jpgDSC_0248Every night cloud descended, sometimes clearing as we packed or continuing with rain. This time, shortly after Santa Maria we rose above it by mid-morning and got some welcome sun at lunchtime to dry our tent.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0235_2.jpgDSC_0235_2El Rio Amajac in its full humid sultry glory. The low point of this sector before a long and sinuous crawl to the cloud-topping heights of Tlahuitepa (2 days later). Our campsite on the grass next to the river allowed us to patch up a nice big hole Sarah made in her knee on the final part of the descent.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0217.jpgDSC_0217With all the green came humidity, and a few kilometres short of Agua Zarca we stumbled upon this Portmerion-esque waterfall-fed swimming pool tucked away in a gully nearly hidden from the road. The water was very, very refreshing, but the sunshine and peaceful dappled shade helped the recovery.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0212.jpgDSC_0212Landa de Matamoros has another of the Mission churcheshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0197_2.jpgDSC_0197_2Japlan de Serra is one of 5 towns along this road in the Reserva Biosfera Sierra Gorda that has a Franciscan Mission church. We rested up and enjoyed the local Neveria (ice-cream shop). Tom's bike has recently acquired a new frame-bag from Scott of the Porcelain Rocket.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0187.jpgDSC_0187After Pinol de Amoles we ducked off the swooping highway to find a place to camp. About 2km along a dirt road we found a nice flat spot by a babbling stream - time to use readily available water to find all those holes! A while later I'd mended 5 tyre punctures and found 2 more mat leaks....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0176_2.jpgDSC_0176_2Futbol is very important to Mexicans - to the extent that when you live on a steep hillside you get the excavators out to create a flat pitch. This one in Camarco, halfway up the 28km climb from Peñamillar.2012-01-08T21:17:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/01/01/mexico-durango-to-zacatecas/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0115.jpgDSC_0115In amongst the colonial architecture of the Zacatecas Centro Historico is a fantastic restaurant that does an all-you-can-eat buffet. They reckoned without the cycle tourist appetite!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0118.jpgDSC_0118A night-scape across the roof-tops of Zacatecas - from here we have to decide our route further down Mexico.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0114_2.jpgDSC_0114_2The rooftop kitchen in our Zacatecas hostel. We missed watching the New Years Eve fireworks from here by a day.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0111_2.jpgDSC_0111_2This photo had to be taken. A mostly abandoned hamlet, maybe named for the wide-open spaces common to Mexico and Australia, or by someone a long way from home?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0110_2.jpgDSC_0110_2The diagonal variety was new to us - maybe designed by someone ambivalent to bicycles, rather than openly hostile.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0104_2.jpgDSC_0104_2Cruising down to the farmlands that cover the plain from San Francisco I Madero to the other side of Matias Ramoshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0102_2.jpgDSC_0102_2Lately we've found ourselves re-experiencing the 'bicycle-proof' cattleguard. The local heavily loaded, creaking cars find these pretty hard too! Getting off to push your bike gingerly over these does allow a proper pause to enjoy the view though.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0098_2.jpgDSC_0098_2The riding from Mesillas to San Francisco equals the best on our trip. Early in the climb out of Mesillas there's a random kilometre or two of cobblestone. Given the current Mexican mission to surface the small roads we like, this may not be here too much longer - a real shame.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0095_2.jpgDSC_0095_2Out on the open road - off the main highway out from Suchilhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0094_2.jpgDSC_0094_2Our camp-spot, off the highway a few kms after Nombre de Dios was nice and secluded. We investigated a glint to make sure we weren't disturbing anyone, and discovered some nicely flamboyant bee-hives :-)2012-07-25T21:54:33+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/01/12/mexico-zacatecas-to-san-luis-de-la-paz-striking-out-on-our-own-with-great-rewards/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0163.jpgDSC_0163Ignacio not only refused to accept any money for 2 spare trailer rods for Sarah, but helped Tom find a good local welder to fix his bike. Every customer he had that day, and probably for many more, heard that we had come all the way from Canada and even via the caminito from Tierra Nueva. Like many other Mexicans we meet he was also bemused that we aren't sponsored or having a TV program made about our little trip.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0162_2.jpgDSC_0162_2Tom discovered that the kickstand plate on his bike had partially broken away a few weeks ago, and in San Luis de la Paz he finnaly got it welded. He's not sure Sarah would have tolerated any more cursing and complaining from him as he struggled to load and unload the Big Dummy, so the repair was in everyone's best interests.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0157.jpgDSC_0157Sarah cruising in magical places that feel even better for having stumbled upon them ourselves without any help from our friends :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0153_2.jpgDSC_0153_2All is rewardedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0150_2.jpgDSC_0150_2The only way is up! A bit of a contrast to recent riding, but nothing like the climb out of the Barranca de Urique, and with a nice mildy thought-provoking surface.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0147_2.jpgDSC_0147_2Nice rolling dirt road with no traffic and the sierras - bliss :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0145.jpgDSC_0145After braving a busy, but thankfully nicely shouldered bit of autopista from Santa Maria del Rio we pulled off onto the road to Tierra Nueva. The next morning we were stocking up at a mini-super in TN. Having established that we really had made it through the Sierras this local sage judged us qualified to attempt the 'caminito' (very little road) to Jofrehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0141_2.jpgDSC_0141_2Nice bike-jarring, trailer rattling down-hill. Believe it or not, our morning spent avoiding a section of autopista by bamboozling the locals with our strangled spanish actually landed us where we wanted to be.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0130_2.jpgDSC_0130_2We met this man in La Chiquilla shortly after we'd inadvertantly made an 8km shortcut across a network of criss-crossing tracks in the bush heading for San Martin. We particularly admired his machete holster - this was a particularly fine example - pretty much all the very friendly bicycle-pedalling men in this part of the world have them, mostly for cutting firewood.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0126_2.jpgDSC_0126_2That afternoon after this man moved his flock onto the road in front of us we indulged in a spot of intentional animal herding - sheep this time, rather than cows. We found them much less inclined to uncontrolled running.2012-01-08T21:17:09+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/02/02/mexico-mineral-del-chico-to-teotitlan-de-flores-magon-a-change-in-scenery/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0307_2.jpgDSC_0307_2Approaching Teotitlan, the mesquites are in flower and the mountains are holding back the clouds from the Caribbean.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0304.jpgDSC_0304They've even managed to fit a Futbol pitch in at the bottom of the canyon..https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0302_2.jpgDSC_0302_2Descending from Nicolas Bravo via Santa Catarina and San Antonio. This road didn't connect up on our map, but the people we asked admitted that it did after remarkably few confused looks at our spanish.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0299_2.jpgDSC_0299_2Yes, the church really is purple... Tochapan was a particularly colourful place with bright green tuk-tuks whizzing around the place. One of them even had a spoiler to stop it taking off!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0297_2.jpgDSC_0297_2One of our better campsites was in this grassy and helpfully twisty arroyo. Waking up having slept in the deep, dark dell does mean that sunny patches for doing the breakfast washing up are harder to find.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0294_2.jpgDSC_0294_2It's amazing how one farm track leads to another, and finally you're standing eating chocolate for want of anything else to do, completely surrounded by annoyingly unhelpful, silent, head-high maize.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0287_2.jpgDSC_0287_2Volcanoes and not a clump of trees in sight. Nice fast riding with the wind in the right direction, but not good for secluded camp-sites.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/p8090081.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAlas poor Eeyore in happier times, now lost to us, but running free with the wild donkeys of Mexico.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0279.jpgDSC_0279Our road climbing out from Mineral del Chico towards Puebla Nueva. Quiet and shady with a mildly challenging surface to prevent boredom - not too bad from a bit of successful navigation 'zen'https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0278_2.jpgDSC_0278_2Mineral del Chico and the rocks we climbed. A very fine place to stop off, but good for the calves as there isn't a flat street or path in sight!2012-01-08T21:16:58+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/02/08/mexico-teotitlan-de-flores-magon-to-oaxaca/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0315_2.jpgDSC_0315_2The absence of half the road is a great traffic limiting factor. We lost count of how many of these there were between Teotitlan and the more main roads near Oaxaca. It didn't stop the occasional large tourist bus coming along - they may not be able to make it for much longer unless someone does some serious repair work.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0314.jpgDSC_0314Shortly after Dominguillo, as we were getting just a bit too hot, Tom noticed this stream nearly hidden from the road. It had a person-sized pool - sheer bliss :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0313_2.jpgDSC_0313_2El Rio Grande shining invivitingly before winding off into the mountains east of our road.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0311_2.jpgDSC_0311_2The downhill part of the road south of Teotitlan de Flores Magon. The road has very little traffic and great views as it winds down towards the Rio Grande.2018-01-16T02:58:36+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/03/02/mexico-tierra-del-sol-tlacochahuaya-nr-oaxaca-permaculture-spanish-lessons-and-milking/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0426_2.jpgDSC_0426_2With so much fruit in all the markets, Tom hasn't been able to resist lately. However, carrying it on a bicycle won't happen, so we make the biggest and best fruit salad ever in preparation for leaving Tierra del Solhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0421_2.jpgDSC_0421_2Simona, feeling an impending sense of loneliness at Sarah's departure. No-one will ever milk her quite as well ever againhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0387.jpgDSC_0387Maria, our profesora imparting amazingly patient knowledge of the arcane intricacies of spanish grammarhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0381_2.jpgDSC_0381_2This is what happens when a sleeping bag liner finally becomes irreparable.. Out wonderful package from Seattle contained a lovely teal-coloured replacement. Sarah's very happyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0374_2.jpgDSC_0374_2More sunshine, this time tempered by a cloud or two, and the windmill doing its thing.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0379.jpgDSC_0379We always feel good about windmills in a place - we had the same reminder of Australia cycling in New Mexico. Foreground in adobehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0367.jpgDSC_0367Milking Simone, the jersey cow, is the beginning of our day - here Pablo showing us how it's donehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0345_2.jpgDSC_0345_2A great space for taking a proper look over the bikes :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0369_2.jpgDSC_0369_2They have a 23m long, 2.5m deep lap pool, complete with fish, frogs and lots and lots of lilies. Possibly a touch cold, given the season.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0378_2.jpgDSC_0378_2The Sierra Norte in the backdrop, with plentiful alfalfa for Simone bordering the path, makes for a place as peaceful or busy as you want it to be.2012-01-08T21:16:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/03/13/mexico-tierra-del-sol-to-tehuantepec-first-sea-in-six-months/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0464.jpgDSC_0464Golden dawn light just after we had the beach to ourselves for an early morning swim - the reason we came to the coast :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0463_2.jpgDSC_0463_2Beachside accommodation at San Agustinillo, complete with breeze and nice stirdy roof beams for slinging bicycles up to fix them. The view and restful sound of crashing surf had nothing to do with our enjoyment of this place - at all - whatsoever...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0454.jpgDSC_0454Tom demonstrating that his bald pate is bigger than the coconut. Road-side fruit and fresh juice stalls were plentiful on our first day in the sultry coastal weather, but sadly lacking after Puerto Angel.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0453_2.jpgDSC_0453_2A gratuitous sunset shot over pounding surf - our first since leaving Fremantle over 7 months ago. Sarah feels that there's something deeply correct about sunset over the sea, and is inexplainably disturbed by sunrise backlighting peeling surf. That's growing up in Western Australia for you...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0452.jpgDSC_0452This shot doesn't really show it all that well, but if you want a water supply up here, you lay several hundred metres of 1 inch diameter black plastic pipe slung through the trees by the road up the hill to the nearest stream, and hope no-one upstream is putting anything nasty into it. You then have to fix leak periodically, after working out which piece of tubing is yours....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0449_2.jpgDSC_0449_2then down and down - and up some more with smatterings of down before we could be convinced that the road really meant it.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0446_2.jpgDSC_0446_2We go up, and up, and up - actually this was an easy bit, almost like levitation - see earlier pictures for something a bit more meaty...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0441_2.jpgDSC_0441_2There's a lot of near vertical farming, mostly with less denudation thankfullyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0439.jpgDSC_0439The road Tom chose out of San Vincente Coatlán turned out to be just a tad vertical. As usual we duly provided a story or two for the locals who turned out to watch our sweating antics.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0436.jpgDSC_0436I tune Sarah's gears in readiness for the mountains to come, and pondering the amazing lightness of its being...2012-01-08T21:16:24+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/03/28/mexico-tehuantepec-to-san-cristobal-de-las-casas/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0504_2.jpgDSC_0504_2The bright colours in the market are dazzling, but there's only so much you can carry on a bicycle, especially after we've just found some Australians heading home to take some of our unwanted excess weight with them :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0500_2.jpgDSC_0500_2San Cristobal is a bustling colonial town with lots of European tourists and some amazing indigenous crafts. All in riotous colour :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0498_2.jpgDSC_0498_2Beetles are everywhere in southern México, and we'd almost missed getting a photo before leaving the country.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0485_2.jpgDSC_0485_2A small bit of semi-intentional cheating... Sarah enjoying an effortless breeze on the way up to San Cristobal.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0490.jpgDSC_0490Once in San Cristobal, and having caught up with Ned and Charlotte, we all got down to the important business of haircuts. Charlotte shows, despite having no experience in the field, that she's a natural. Hopefully it won't impair Ned's hill-climbing strength...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0481.jpgDSC_0481The Cañon del Sumidero cuts across the mountains north of Tuxtla, and even has some fresh water crocs to make us think of our kayaking trips in northern Australia.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0471.jpgDSC_0471Sarah was 120km ahead of Tom with this one - the numbers are much more impressive in kilometres than miles :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0469_2.jpgDSC_0469_2A landscape filled with towering wind-mills should make any cycle tourist quake on their pedals - noone builds them in this number unless there's a lot of reliable wind out there. In our case, these were, of course accompanied by a brisk head-wind!2012-01-08T21:16:15+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/04/03/mexico-san-cristobal-de-las-casas-to-lago-de-montebello-via-palenque-and-benemerito/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0584_2.jpgDSC_0584_2Back in the relative cool of 1700m elevation we just flumphed by Lago International at Tziscao, only 300m from the Guatemalan border. Shame there's no immigration booths there to stamp our passports or we could go straight through this way..https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0577_2.jpgDSC_0577_2Successive hills lead progressively, and very slowly upwards out of the hot and humid junglehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0574.jpgDSC_0574One of our mid-afternoon swim spots - we managed to find a safe pool near the top of this cascada.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0573_2.jpgDSC_0573_2On our way back up after Ixtán we came across a common sight (and smell) - burning the large heap of rubbish dumped down a hillside just out of a town.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0570_2.jpgDSC_0570_2Guacamayas are endangered. Our route onward from Benemérito passed by a reserve. But in our usual fashion we got there at the wrong time of day to stop and look. We were then very happy when 5 Scarlet Macaws (Guacamayas) flew around between some trees just next to the road a little while later. The photo doesn't do them justice - sorry. Basically they're quite big with lots of red and blue.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0569_2.jpgDSC_0569_2They may not be all that big, but volume is definitely not proportional to size! A Howler Monkey in the trees above our river-side campsite. Thankfully they (mostly) shut-up overnight...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0567_2.jpgDSC_0567_2One of our camp-spots. We duck down a track just before a bridge and find a flat spot. Sarah goes exploring while Tom pumps water for dinner. Life is pretty hard sometimes! She even manages to pay tribute to the colours on the Méxican flag...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0564.jpgDSC_0564Somewhat sporadically, and thankfully blatantly completely ignored by the multitude of locals, were these No Cycling signs. We ignored them, and weren't gobbled up by the nice Federales with their guns - Joy!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0563_2.jpgDSC_0563_2The well-paved road along the Méxican side of the Guatemalan border is lush jungle with all the exuberant life you'd expect for a couple of days from Palenque before it deteriorates after Benemérito into cleared ranch-land. This part was nice and fast without much traffic.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0558_2.jpgDSC_0558_2Sarah is good at attracting friendly animals, although maybe it was just a nice shady spot to hang out.2012-01-08T21:16:05+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/04/11/mexicoguatemala-lagos-de-montebello-to-huehuetenango-via-gracias-a-dios-and-san-mateo-ixtatan/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0606_2.jpgDSC_0606_2Nearing Todos Santos, the landscape is marked by cacti similar to the Maguey of Mexico lining the tops of dry-stone walls. The fields litter with limestone bouldershttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0605_2.jpgDSC_0605_2The plateau approaching the Todos Santos turn-off is a sparse, limestone strewn area and a marked contrast to the thick pine woods and near-vertical fields of the climb. As well as this lion there is also a purple dragon and a brown rodent to liven things up.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0601.jpgDSC_0601After a "top" of about 3200m shortly after San Mateo, the road plunges down to the towns and grinds back out and down to the next. The climb up from San Juan Ixcoy goes back up to 3800m (higher than we'd been on the whole USA/Canada section of our route). Sarah basking in glorious sunshine :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0598_2.jpgDSC_0598_2Tom fixing his first puncture since Oaxaca on the hill out of San Juan Ixcoy. The shirt has now been binned as he was getting sunburned through the holes!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0594_2.jpgDSC_0594_2San Mateo Ixtatan, the town we'd been aiming for, snuggled in a mountain valley. There was still more climbing for 10km after this before blessed, welcome downhill and friendly undulating terrain. Not much later the paved road started allowing us time to bask in our surroundings and curse our weak legs.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0593_2.jpgDSC_0593_2It's not that we spent all our time pushing... We turned many corners hoping they'd be the top or at least some respite only to be faced with more, and more and more. In the space of a few km we'd climbed from 1500m to over 3200m on rocky roads that allowed little concentration for admiring the view.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0591.jpgDSC_0591After turning right at what we think might have been Yuxquén, the really hard work began. Not that the swooping undulations of the roads around the Cuchumatán range are easy; it's just that everything is relative. The climb, which took us a day and a half, was as hard as getting out of the Copper Canyon, maybe harder as we didn't know how far it went on.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0589_2.jpgDSC_0589_28km after the junction with the southbound Nenton road, the pavement stopped. We enjoyed the well-built paved road complete with shoulder; but later realised that it was only being built to allow mining access to the remote areas along the Guatemalan side of the border. Mining that the local people are very unhappy about.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0588_2.jpgDSC_0588_2After much reckoning and nervousness about getting into Guatemala by a non-main route, the Gracia a Dios experience was incredibly benign. The Mexican side was open 'til 10pm weekedays, and after a steep climb to the top of a hill, we were greeted by the Guatemalan side. There a pleasant rolly-polly man rumaged around in a drawer for a few minutes, produced the correct stamp, tested it a few times, then very carefully marked our passports. No hassling for money, no checking of luggage - bliss!2012-01-08T21:15:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/04/14/guatemala-huehuetenango-to-panajachel/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0613.jpgDSC_0613Coming down from the last climb (3200m down to 1500m in Panajachel) we had a ball swooping through perfect turns and skipping down rock steps. The bikes even managed to keep up :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0611.jpgDSC_0611Another gratuitous pine-needle strewn pickiehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0609.jpgDSC_0609The old road winds its way around the hills between Toto and Pana. Lots of it passes through mature pine forest - all completely without traffic. Having come from a mountain biking background to this cycle touring lark, it was really nice to pick our line through the obstacle course. Sarah reckons it's the single best section on the entire trip so far!2013-06-20T14:48:45+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/05/12/guatemala-panajachel-to-san-andres-itzapa-mayapedal/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0765_2.jpgDSC_0765_2Sarah's beloved trailer, now a glorious orange colour, goes to a loving new home. Anita and Mario are cycling as far as Costa Rica then flying back to Germany to be reunited with her much-missed dog for a tour towards Egypt. The dog'll be travelling in style now!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0771_2.jpgDSC_0771_2Mothers Day in San Andres has been extended to become a day for women. In the local schools all the female teachers have the day off, and the male teachers have to do all the work. As Sarah was the only woman at Mayapedal, she had a cake bought for her!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0770.jpgDSC_0770There are 300 cafes and eateries in Antigua catering to the tourist masses. The Rainbow Cafe has one of the Mayapedal BiciLiquadores, but other than hosting monthly expositions of what we make, doesn't seem to use it much!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0769.jpgDSC_0769The classic Antigua view with colonial buildings and the looming bulk of Volcan Aguahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0750.jpgDSC_0750Given the altitude it's also pretty cold up there. Jen was understandably reluctant to abandon any available warmthhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0749.jpgDSC_0749Fuego in action in the post-dawn light. Sadly, although this was pretty specky, the un-photographed detonations and spewed glowing missiles of the night before were more so.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0743_2.jpgDSC_0743_2Acatenango is in the background, with the saddle and bivi-spot in between. Not a place to roll over in bed!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0735_2.jpgDSC_0735_2Not a bad view for a night's work...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0736_2.jpgDSC_0736_2Heading for Volcanes Acatenango and Fuego near San Andrés and after climbing for 6 hours, the group got to this precarious bivi-spot at midnight. Sadly no-one managed to successfully capture the showers of glowing embers that shot from Volcan Fuego.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0730_2.jpgDSC_0730_2Within 20 minutes of the procession, the whole carpeta is swept up and loaded onto carts - we couldn't help wondering what would happen if they put a similar effort into keeping the place clean the rest of the year...2012-01-08T21:15:29+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/05/21/guatemalahonduras-san-andres-itzapa-to-copan-ruinas/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0852_2.jpgDSC_0852_2Sarah getting some personal attention from the lads!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0839_2.jpgDSC_0839_2Macaw Mountain, just out of Copán Ruinas, cares for rescued and abandoned birds. Sarah went there to escape Tom's efforts to get some "work" donehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0826.jpgDSC_0826The encroaching jungle gives a great sense of peace, though when people lived here there wasn't much in the way of plant-life and although it's not really known, it is felt that places like this died when they outstretched their environmental resourceshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0824.jpgDSC_0824Before the archeologists arrived the site was mostly tree-covered mounds with some finished stone sticking out. Some hasn't changed muchhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0820.jpgDSC_0820More 18th Rabbit (we think, we lost track after a bit)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0821.jpgDSC_082118th Rabbit (one of the semi-divine rulers) gets plenty of sculptural attention on the stellae. The stellae in Bonampak and Palenque didn't have this degree of relief, maybe with harder rock to work with.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0816.jpgDSC_0816The archeological site just outside Copán Ruinas is thankfully less busy than Palenque and having got there at opening time we enjoyed pottering round in a peaceful tranquility undisturbed by large tour groups and their guides. We did narrowly miss a school group that arrived as we were leaving, so it could have been differenthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0811.jpgDSC_0811Sarah's bike hanging out in Copán Ruinas while we escape the heat of the dayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0805_2.jpgDSC_0805_2Our bikes taking a break from us in the highlands between San José Pinula and Mataquescuintla. Sarah's new setup with rear rack and panniers hasn't proved too much to get used to, and moving the bike around in tight quarters is a breeze. The well-graded dirt road between these two towns was a fantastic contour-winding tour (once you'd got up there) through green ranchlands and forests.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0803_2.jpgDSC_0803_2After a nice, mildly rock dirt road descent down to Lago Amititlan, things didn't stay flat long - this is Guatemala after all! Sarah attacking the hairpins back up the hill again. Tom's developing a grading system for navigational errors: worst is accidentally going down a steep hill then having to retrace your steps back up, followed by incorrectly going up a hill, then going the wrong way on the flat. Time of day, need for food or water and weather conditions also impact on the potential recriminations towards the guilty party...2012-01-08T21:15:17+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/05/28/honduras-copan-ruinas-to-la-esperanza-there-might-be-a-bit-of-pushing/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0895_2.jpgDSC_0895_2The rooftops of La Esperanza - a good place to dry out and plan the next few dayshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0885_2.jpgDSC_0885_2Everything out to dry after a night of heavy rainhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0883_2.jpgDSC_0883_2That was before the road, which was marked as a major non-asphalted road and was supposed to have a bus a day, deteriorated into a rain-runnelled and rock-strewn bike-hauling fest.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0881.jpgDSC_0881with children walking to school near San Marcoshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0880.jpgDSC_0880Chugging along in the remains of the early morning cloud - nice and cool :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0873.jpgDSC_0873There were some nice rolling sections before further downs-that-must-go-up-againhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0872.jpgDSC_0872The track wasn't flat for long, with nicely technical plunging descents alternation with uphill pusheshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0869.jpgDSC_0869One of the easy bits of the track beyond Belén Gualcho. This section of road, that is marked as being fairly major on our map see almost no mechanised transport. Horses are the way forward apparentlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0868_2.jpgDSC_0868_2Afternoon rain approaches. We found an animal shelter, sat for half an hour, then realise that this time it was going to pass us by so we ventured forth againhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0867_2.jpgDSC_0867_2In Corquín we stopped in the Parque Central for me to sort out my rear brake. Within minutes the entire mobile male population was observing in concentrated, uncannily quiet proximity2012-01-08T21:15:03+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/06/05/hondurasnicaragua-la-esperanza-to-esteli/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0904_2.jpgDSC_0904_2The blessed descent from the Los Manos border crossing into Nicaragua was through beautiful, lush forest, with this mural painted on one of the safety barriershttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0903_2.jpgDSC_0903_2I apologise for this one, but couldn't not take it. In Honduras, a country not known to me for this musical instrument, there is an Eco-park called "The Bagpiper", sponsored like pretty much everything else in central america, by Coca-cola!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0900_2.jpgDSC_0900_2Then without a single wobble he cruised off towards homhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0899_2.jpgDSC_0899_2We found a sunny spot by the road to dry our tent out just short of La Paz, then watched with respect as this man quickly lashed this enormous bundle of firewood to his bike. The constant daily task of finding wood for cooking seems to consume a lot of time, and contributes to increasing deforestationhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0897.jpgDSC_0897The fleeting beauty of an orchid given to us on our way out of La Esperanza. It didn't survive the rainstorm that night2012-01-08T21:14:50+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/06/10/nicaragua-esteli-to-granada/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0918.jpgDSC_0918Looking back up the Calzade towards the colonial churches surrounding the Parque Central in Granada. There's even an "Irish" pub just down the road if that's your thing.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0915.jpgDSC_0915Immaculate spanish colonial architecture is a feature of Granada, and feels quite exclusive of real Nicaragua.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0913_2.jpgDSC_0913_2We've ended up staying in towns and therefore hotels much more than we'd normally do. This has usually been because that's where we end up when it's about to pour, or we don't have the energy for the inevitable steep haul out in the continued heat of the late afternoon. We spent a while chatting to the woman running this refreshment stall in Escipúlas while waiting for the downpour to lessen enough to find a place to stay.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0912.jpgDSC_0912Happily rattling along Hugh's route along narrow rocky lanes through cloud shrouded coffee plantationshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0911.jpgDSC_0911Just after we'd got to trending round Cerro Apante after the steep haul out of Matagalpa we passed some school children playing ball games in the road. There was much waving, and a few minutes later 2 girls ran to catch us up and told us that their teacher'd given them permission to ask us to come back and play. Unfortunately we declined, but tried to convey our gratitude for their very polite request.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0908.jpgDSC_0908The nicely paved road between Jinotega and Matagalpa has a justly deserved reputation as one of the most scenic in Nicaragua. After a steady 10km climb, it meanders along a ridge clad with cloud forest and howler monkeys before heading down to Matagalpahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0907_2.jpgDSC_0907_2The lush green countryside, cloud cover and well-made drystone walls of the Reserva Miraflor up from Estelí reminded us of North Wales. It was just a bit warmer though to dispel any confusion!2012-01-08T21:14:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/06/19/nicaraguacosta-rica-granada-to-liberia/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0959.jpgDSC_0959We get rained on at 4-5pm every evening. The last couple of days while working out way westward across the north of Costa Rica towards the Nicoya peninsula we've done pretty well for being in the right place to ask for a sheltered campsite when the first drops are threatening. The last one saw us extremely happily camped in an ultra-dry haybarn. After making sure we didn't do anything to set light to his haybales, the elderly farmer left us to it. The place even had electric lighting!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0954.jpgDSC_0954After repeatedly asking what we needed to pay to put the bikes on the river boat from San Carlos to Los Chiles when we were buying our tickets and being told there wasn't a charge; the man in blue waited until we'd unloaded the bikes before he started hassling us for money. More power to Anita - he didn't get anywhere. We felt even less charitable to him when it turned out he'd not given us the immigration and customs forms we needed to get into Costa Rica... Crossing the border by boat was fun, though not nearly as hassle-free as the others we've done.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0949.jpgDSC_0949After an overnight ferry from Altagracia we arrived in San Carlos at dawn. Then came the wait for the onward lancha (river boat) to Los Chiles and the Costa Rican border.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0940.jpgDSC_0940Sarah enjoying a change of saddle. She reckons that months of several hours a day would be much easier on a horse than on a bicycle. I think I might have to learn to ride a horse for the next trip!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0939_2.jpgDSC_0939_2After missing each other by less than a day a bit further north in Nicaragua, we've met up with Anita and Mario again. Anita is the proud owner of Sarah's (now) bright orange trailer. Anita and Sarah both love horses, but it was saddeningly difficult to find a pair without ribs sticking out.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0936.jpgDSC_0936The manufacturer of a certain drug sponsors a sign suggesting that local men don't resort to Turtle eggs to produce the same effect...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0924_2.jpgDSC_0924_2Apart from the paved sections between Altagracia, Moyogalpa and Santa Cruz, the rest of the Isla is rocky dirt. There are buses that doggedly work their way all round these sections. Mario, Anita and Sarah make the most of their unloaded bikes to get some speed uphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0922.jpgDSC_0922On Isla Ometepe all is lush and verdant. Many tourists come to climb the twin volcanos that together with a low-lying isthmus make up the island. Unfortunately, the peaks are usually wreathed in cloud, so we contented ourselves with looping-the-loop using the San Domingo beaches as a base. Sarah made the full circuit, with me having to do some 'work' to prevent me doing the full southern part.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0919_2.jpgDSC_0919_2Leaving Granada behind, chased by rain. The twice-weekly ferry to San Carlos starts in the early afternoon, stops off at Altagracia on Isla Ometepe just before dark, then carries on overnight to get to San Carlos and the outlet of Lago Nicaragua at dawn the next morning. We're getting into regular evening rain now, with some afternoon additions.2012-01-08T21:14:20+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/07/01/costa-rica-liberia-to-laguna-arenal-via-nicoya-peninsula-and-santa-elena-cloud-forest-reserve/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1006_2.jpgDSC_1006_2Sarah and Anna taking a break along the often steeply undulating rocky dirt road from Santa Elena to Tilaránhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1001.jpgDSC_1001There are 2 cloud forest reserves in the Costa Rican highlands. Monteverde is the more famous, but we chose Santa Elena as there are fewer people. Peace reigns, with tantalising bird calls and true to the name, lots of cloud...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0993_2.jpgDSC_0993_2We spent an afternoon following one of the walking trails. There's lots of colour to punctuate the verdant lushnesshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0988.jpgDSC_0988and Sarah getting a showerhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0986.jpgDSC_0986Heading up into the mountains and cloud forests after leaving the peninsula we found some very welcome swimming opportunities. Anna getting fully immersedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0978_2.jpgDSC_0978_2Brooding skies and storm-surf formed the backdrop to a nice section of coast from Playa Tamarindo to Playa Garzo with a only a few ramshackle villages. The peace was probably aided by a number of river crossing that would have been difficult by carhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0976.jpgDSC_0976Rain dominates the day, with afternoon or evening storms, and sometimes frontal systems giving continual lighter wetness. All of this swells the rivers, meaning that we had a better time getting around than the car-drivers with lots of these handy foot bridges.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0975_2.jpgDSC_0975_2Even the small, dirt roads we used for most of our Nicoya navigation had billboards proclaiming the merits of gated, secure "eco"communities. We were never sure what was "eco" about them. Costa Rica has a substantial US expat population so the majority of adverts and property sale notices are in english or spanglish at mosthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0974_2.jpgDSC_0974_2Playa Brasilito was another of the lesser frequented beaches, and had some of the better bodysurfing waves we tried. Luminous evening stormlight helped the moodhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0970.jpgDSC_0970All is well with the world. Sarah and Anna Kortschak, another cycle tourist who we've been tracking down México and central america, enjoying the back roads of the peninsula, heading for Potrero.2012-01-08T21:14:06+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/07/04/costa-rica-laguna-arenal-to-alajuela/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1028_2.jpgDSC_1028_2Calm waters and the onward road is beckoninghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1026_2.jpgDSC_1026_2Take two - steady as she goes with the bike, having already done a crossing with the bags and given the camera to a very smug Sarah who had picked the right line to start withhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1025_2.jpgDSC_1025_2So better to find another point of attack - why is there always an audience for these things?https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1024.jpgDSC_1024About mid-morning we discover why there isn't any traffic on the road/track we've been enjoying mightily.. Tom deciding that this particular bit of the Caño Negra isn't a particularly good bike-fording spot. Getting across without a bike is beginning to feel pretty dicey too...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1022.jpgDSC_1022The calm before another 'interesting' descent, complete with background volcano. All we did was pick the smallest road, and we get this. Life is so hard sometimes!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1020_2.jpgDSC_1020_2Go the legs! The only traffic we meet after Viejo Arenal are a couple of horses. The road has lots of melon shaped smooth rocks requiring considerable concentration. The ups are sometimes push-worthy, and the downs skittery, slidey affairs with lots of potential for tumbles. Somewhere along the way Tom's bike jettisons the bicycle pump...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1021.jpgDSC_1021While the northern shore of the lake has a busy paved road full of tourists and traffic, the one we pick is much better. It is mildly undulating and non-thought provoking as far as Viejo Arenal, then things liven up quite a bit. Sarah enjoying the easy bit...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1018_2.jpgDSC_1018_2Volcan Arenal fulfils all criteria for 'classic volcano shape' status, but is only intermittently visible to us as we work our way along the southern shore of Laguna Arenal. Dawn after a night of rain gives us a grandstand viewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1019_2.jpgDSC_1019_2After a late start we only get as far as this cow shed before the heavens open and after moving our stuff into an ever decreasing patch of dry floor we eventually put the tent up on the same spot as the rain shows no signs of abating.2012-01-08T21:13:57+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/07/20/costa-ricapanama-alajuela-to-bocas-del-toro-with-off-bike-side-trip-to-quepos-and-montezuma-nicoya/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1094_2.jpgDSC_1094_2In Panama, remarkably, our bikes made it from the mainland to the islands without getting wet, even with Tom's extra-long bike taxing the lancha's capacityhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1093.jpgDSC_1093A hub in bits... Her later comment "what else could go wrong with my bike" sums up her mood :-(https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1082_2.jpgDSC_1082_2Hoping for superior equipment and some parts, Anna takes centre-stage at the Almirante bike mechanic shop. In the end, we dismantle the hub, and put it back together again ourselves.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1075.jpgDSC_1075The border crossing into Panamá at Sixaola is a rickety old rail bridge - now into country no. 8! (and no. 11 for Anna)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1067.jpgDSC_1067Anna, plugged in for road-riding, is showing signs of banana overload. They're impossible to escape all along this stretch of coasthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1064_2.jpgDSC_1064_2Before we left the Batán Bomberos, Anna and Sarah got in there with the cameras. The bomberos added us to their book of passing cycle tourists, and posed benignly for some photoshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1059_2.jpgDSC_1059_2While Tom was busy un-flattening his glass-spiked tyre, Anna was using some black silicone to try and make some of her stuff a bit more waterproof. There's nothing like this for stopping the rain in its tracks though, so the result is as yet unproven!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1065_2.jpgDSC_1065_2A much faster day spat us onto Costa Rica route 32, a much busier and flatter road connecting San José to Puerto Limón. Just as we were beginning to feel camp o'clock-ish we spotted this nice shiny fire engine parked on the side of the road. Following repeated advice from our friend Javier, who we'd left in Mayapedal, we got chatting to the Bomberos. A short while later we were heading towards their secure and very shiny 2 year old fire station and its dormitorio!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1051_2.jpgDSC_1051_2The next night after a day of climbing round Volcan Irazu on nice quiet rural roads in pouring rain, we put our tents up under the watchful guard of this frog... He proved more of a deterrent than the police, and all went well :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1049_2.jpgDSC_1049_2The scene of the crime... Our first day back on the route from Alajuela towards the Caribbean coast saw us making a late start and working our way past San José on non-major roads. That night we camped on this basketball court at the back of the local police station. Unfortunately we didn't take up their offer to keep our bikes inside, as during the night my waterproof and Sarah's helmet were stolen2012-01-08T21:13:42+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/07/29/bocas-del-toro-to-ciudad-de-panama/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1142.jpgDSC_1142That's 2 bikes (21 and 29kg) - the Surly Big Dummy on the right; and our 18kg check-in luggage. Unfortunately the over-size limit may be a problem, so we'll see how much we get stung for.... UPDATE! The nice people at the TACA check-in desk ignored the size of our bike boxes as they were bicycles and just were that size. And they helped us redistribute some things into our hand luggage to bring the total checked-in under the weight limit, so we didn't pay any excess at allhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1134.jpgDSC_1134Tom has a habit of noticing public health posters. Most of them in earlier central american countries had been extolling the benefits of clean drinking water and washing your hands to avoid cholera; and mosquito control to avoid dengue. In Panamá city 49% of pregnancies end in caesarian sections, though the rate is much lower in poorer areas of the country. Here the poster says that "Everything good takes time, lowering the rate of surgery is our goal" In contrast to this the australian C-section rate is about 20% and that is considered too high!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1136.jpgDSC_1136Our final night on the road before a few days in the city, packing our bikes for the plane to Colombia, was spent enjoying the hospitality of the Arraiján bomberos. The captain, who'd been working there for 52 years, was the epitomy of wise calmness and attention to the rain-soaked cyclists who turned up on his doorstep.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1132.jpgDSC_1132For hundreds of kilometres there was no navigation necessary, and the daily task was just to plough forwards and avoid the miriad pieces of glass and shredded truck tyres in the varying shoulder the Panamericana allowed us. We did manage some diversions along smaller roads including a nice stretch to Soná then back on at Santiago, but these possibilities stopped a couple of days out from Panamá itself.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1127_2.jpgDSC_1127_2Our panamanian breakfast the next day, served up fresh. Sarah ended up with 2 as the first one had juice but no meat. This was after we'd already made and eaten our usual fodder, so we were a bit full when the road hit us that morninghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1121_2.jpgDSC_1121_2At the end of a day, we'd pulled over the ask some people who'd waved at us if they knew of anywhere flat and safe that we could camp for the night. We'd carefully explained that we had food, water, a little house (tent) and little beds (sleeping mats) and would be gone by 8am, when they offered the house next to theirs. It was being renovated, but suited us just finehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1112_2.jpgDSC_1112_2We'd already discovered half-built houses as a potential source of under-cover camping. The owner of this one seemed quite happy for us use it for the nighthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1119_2.jpgDSC_1119_2Not such a bag view for a hostel. Unfortunately, though there was plenty of ecological good work and design to laud, it felt a little too far towards the backpacker "experience" for our likinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1116_2.jpgDSC_1116_2It's a relatively stiff haul up from the caribbean coast to the continental divide crossing, with no food shops other than a couple of stalls, we got is wrong and were pretty wobbly by the time we found a shop. The view wasn't bad though2012-01-08T21:13:26+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/08/12/colombia-bogota/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1162_2.jpgDSC_1162_2Making use of the, as then, unknown duration of our stay in Bogotá. Sarah resorts to studying her spanish cards having got the food bags as organised as they could ever be. Labelled and all!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1159_2.jpgDSC_1159_2Even more gold!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1152.jpgDSC_1152More gold...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1156.jpgDSC_1156Some of the halls are more multimedia art installations than factual, with this being part of a display meant to evoke the place of shamanistic rituals in pre-conquest lifehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1158_2.jpgDSC_1158_2Having heard more about Bogotá from other cyclists who've been through recently, we visited the Museo Oro (gold museum). This collection of mostly pre-conquistador artefacts is said to be the biggest in south america.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1160.jpgDSC_1160We've been using the city's extensive cycle network to get around over the last few days. Some parts are a bit hit and miss. Others, like this one, take centre-stage in broad boulevards.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1149.jpgDSC_1149In the city centre, and at strategic points throughout the Bogotá cycle route network, enterprising bike mechanics set up their wareshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1146_2.jpgDSC_1146_2One of the few things that Tom knew about Bogotá before this trip (other than that it is in Colombia and is pretty high), was that they shut some streets to motorised traffic every sunday. Despite this knowledge, it was a fantastic thing to see done, and an example to other cities2012-01-08T21:13:15+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/08/25/colombia-bogota-to-san-agustin-on-the-move-again/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1283_2.jpgDSC_1283_2I'm actually doing some work - finishing off a contribution to an academic book chapter, while supposedly preparing for a telephone interview. Happily, though the interview wasn't fun, the job is mine - for April 2012. Now all we have to do is ride our bikes some more!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1281_2.jpgDSC_1281_2Our rest-up spot for a couple of days in San Agustin. We'd thought that 10+ days of cycling in the mountains hadn't got to us, then we found that we could hardly walk up the last hill to the hostel!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1260.jpgDSC_1260but when this is part of your view, life's really good. El Salton de Bordones camping, complete with the now standard set of curious, very polite small children!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1265_2.jpgDSC_1265_2Nice flat grassy campsite surrounded by mountains aren't to be sniffed athttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1258.jpgDSC_1258We rolled into Salado Blanco expecting it to be another slightly sleepy little town, and a good place to stock up and check some emails. Little did we reckon with our coinciding with the efflux of the local school. You don't need to be a pop star to get a crowd like this - Sarah thinking about a sharp exit!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1256.jpgDSC_1256After embarking on a long climb over from the road out of La Argentina towards San Roque, we eventually found a 'top' only to discover there was more up. We were then told by a local horse-riding sage that it was 3 hours to the next town, and some teenagers on motos assured us that it was over 100km... Our maps suggested differently, but the road we were on didn't appear to be on it. Then we crested the real summit and had a great time descending through cloud forrest with tree-ferns reminiscent of south island NZ!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1255.jpgDSC_1255It used to be that the person keeping an eye on the bikes while the other shopped mostly tried to avoid eye contact with anyone in case they tried to converse. Things have moved on a little bit since then. We're sent off by the whole family who've just fed us agua de panela (hot water with molasses) and pan de queso (small cheesy breads), after their father got chatting to me outside the grocery store in La Argentina!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1252_2.jpgDSC_1252_2We're still working our way through the camping location tricks. After finally getting onto the Bomberos in Costa Rica and Panama, we set-up for the night at a local primary school. We promptly acquire an audience of small children, though these are of the shy type. A few minutes later we're the proud recipients of a large bag of bananas - enough to last a couple of days!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1251_2.jpgDSC_1251_2After La Plata, the road heads up along the river valley before beginning to climb, and climb, and climb....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1249.jpgDSC_1249Colombia has been notorious for illicit drugs. This is one of the licit ones - Cacao pods or chocolate2012-01-08T21:13:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/09/01/colombia-san-agustin-to-pasto/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1316_2.jpgDSC_1316_2Looking back from the final pass before Pasto. We'd spent most of the day in conditions that are best described as Dreich or in less scottish terminology, freezing blustery rain with dense cloud. A proper test of the wet-weather gear after so long in hotter climeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1315.jpgDSC_1315They warn people about prolonged descents - we need no help with this..https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1308_2.jpgDSC_1308_2Water and lush walls of green flecked with colour surround us as we journey.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1307_2.jpgDSC_1307_2After the initital, massively hair-pinned climb from Mocoa, the road makes progress through the creases and folds of the mountainside towards the elusive pass in the distancehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1305_2.jpgDSC_1305_2Looking back we can see the beginnings of the vast swathe of jungle that is the Amazonhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1304.jpgDSC_1304Evening light at our hard-won perch in the mountains above Mocoa. 40km in a day is all we can do, then we must find a flat spot for the tent that isn't a bog or at immediate risk of landslide...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1302.jpgDSC_1302Shards of colour on the roadhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1299.jpgDSC_1299On the up and up. The going is thought-provoking at times, but rideable. The greatest challenge is to maintain balance and momentum along a doable line with goods traffic trying to pass in, often both directions at oncehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1297.jpgDSC_1297This is the only direct road between the departmental capitals of Putamayo and Nariño, and so it has a steady stream of traffic in both directions, grinding slowly up and down it. There are warnings not to travel at night in winter, given the landslide risk and isolation.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1293.jpgDSC_1293Mocoa, at 500m elevation, was back to the jungle for us. We stayed at the Belgian run Hostel del Rio, next to a fast flowing, and popular swimming hole. Here, on the edge of the Amazon, there is wildlife aplenty. This, very well disguised insect had to be pointed out to us!2012-01-08T21:12:59+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/09/10/colombiaecuador-pasto-to-tumbaco/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1355.jpgDSC_1355As we settle into the Casa de Ciclista in Tumbaco amid the cast-off bike parts, there are traces of cycle-tourists away doing other things and due to return.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1353.jpgDSC_1353A few kilometres north of Quito the road crosses the equator and there is a proliferation of monuments. This is a sneak view, as we were too stingy to pay the entry fee!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1352_2.jpgDSC_1352_2then at the pass, with the cloud still holding off we are offered a vista worth the effort before a rattling, sliding descent down to 'civilisation'https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1349_2.jpgDSC_1349_2All that is already at the top of a climb must climb again. We cracked out the stove and defrosted before heading up to the pass near Cerro Negro. The craggy ridge-line on the left had us reminiscing about the Western Arthurs range in Tassie as we ground our way up the hillhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1348_2.jpgDSC_1348_2After weathering the cobbles and what is becoming the daily rain, we arrive at Laguna Mojanda. Possibly because of the weather we have it to ourselves, and our minds drift to other similar places we love. Scotland and southwest Tasmaniahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1329.jpgDSC_1329Otovalo is famous for an arts and craft market which overflows its weekday boundaries each saturday to become the biggest in south america. Even on a week day we found it a dizzying display of colour and woolly warmthhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1327.jpgDSC_1327and the frailejonhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1320.jpgDSC_1320The well insulated flowering stem of the yucca-like plantshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1326_2.jpgDSC_1326_2The Paramo is a wild, windswept landscape to rival our favourites on this trip. Apart from the pampas grass, there are 2 predominant plants that post their flowering stems high. The fluffier ones with leaves are frailejon, the others a yucca-like cactus.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1322_2.jpgDSC_1322_2The best days are such as these! We got off the highway within 15km of the border onto a route across the Paramo, or high grasslands.2012-01-08T21:12:50+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/09/17/peru-tumbaco-to-riobamba-via-cotopaxi-lago-quilotoa-and-chimborazo/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1406_2.jpgDSC_1406_2More Vicuñas, and some "sunny intervals", but still no big snowy volcano...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1405_2.jpgDSC_1405_2The barren, wind-swept slopes of Chimborazo are home to Vicuñas, a lithe and wild version of the more fluffy llamashttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1404_2.jpgDSC_1404_2The road emerges into the paramo, and supposedly there's a volcano in there somewhere... Chimborazo is 6310m, and because it's not far from the equator is actually further from the centre of the earth than K2 (according to reliable sources!)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1401_2.jpgDSC_1401_2At the end of a day of iPod spanish lessons on the Panamericana and a less than happy episode where we had to buy Sarah's cycle computer back from the dodgy blokes who'd taken it while our back were turned for a couple of minutes in Ambato, we were directed onto the "old road to Guaranda". Minimal traffic, gap-toothed smiles and a paved road that climbed gently along this steep-walled gorge cheered us up no end!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1402.jpgDSC_1402At the end of a day of iPod spanish lessons on the Panamericana and a less than happy episode where we had to buy Sarah's cycle computer back from the dodgy blokes who'd taken it while our back were turned for a couple of minutes in Ambato, we were directed onto the "old road to Guaranda". Minimal traffic, gap-toothed smiles and a paved road that climbed gently along this steep-walled gorge cheered us up no end!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1399_2.jpgDSC_1399_2Getting back to Latacunga from Zumbahua is beset by heavy road-building traffic. The challenge was to stay upright with the gusty wind, keep on the road, and not breath in too much dust. Thankfully, the worst was mostly down-hill!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1396_2.jpgDSC_1396_2After part of a morning spent chasing the wind round the final hairpins of the climb, we arrived at Lago Quilotoa. After being refunded the park entry fee because the woman at the kiosk didn't have $1 change for a $5 note, we sat on the rim and soaked in the sunshinehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1394_2.jpgDSC_1394_2The weather smiled brightly upon us. Great scenery, nicely contoured riding, extraordinarily friendly locals and almost no traffic - much smiling and happiness heading for Lago Quilotoahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1392.jpgDSC_1392The road from Sigchos to Chugchilán is very user-friendly. A well-packed dirt road that contours along the valley wall. At one point we both got locationally confused - it looked Australian, and smelt Australian... There were gum trees everywhere! Non-native eucalypts are the most common tree-type in a largely deforested Ecuadorhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1390_2.jpgDSC_1390_2The road to Sigchos passes the twin peaks of Volcanes Iliniza with a paved swoop before the inevitable grind back up complicated by gusts of wind and dust2012-01-08T21:12:41+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/10/11/ecuadorperu-loja-to-cajamarca/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/image1.jpgimage1meanwhile in the dentist's shop which happened to be nextdoor, Sarah has a chipped tooth fixed in the time it took Tom to change a tyre and patch the tube! A very efficient set of circumstances :-) (photo J. Cruz)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/image3.jpgimage3Once into Cajamarca, Tom gets yet another puncture in his front wheel. He's been soldiering on with a badly bulging and worn tyre for nearly 3000km leading to plentiful holes in the tube underneath. Now it's out with the old and on with a lovely, round, grippy new tyre. (photo. J Cruz)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1518_2.jpgDSC_1518_2Heading on from Celendín, and especially after Encañada, the land is rural and faster going down into Cajamarca.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1516.jpgDSC_1516Not too long after this look back, the clouds and rain closed in once morehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1514_2.jpgDSC_1514_2After out-running the rain into the mango-drenched stickiness of Balsas we quickly stock up for the next climb; and without discussion use the last hour of daylight to gain some height away from the worst of the insects. Packing after a night of rain, we soak ourselves in the view, and get into the headspace for a steady 6.5 hours at 6km/hr up out of the valleyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1512.jpgDSC_151240+km of continual downhill brings us into the heat, the layers come off, and we fly on down the twists and turns chased by an opaque wall of rain and cloudhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1507.jpgDSC_1507and just in case, here's a fully zoomed close-up! Hot, lush Balsas with the start of 45km up-hill hairpins on the other side of the valleyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1506_2.jpgDSC_1506_2Then not too long after rugging up even more for the 60km long descent with loss of 2.6km altitude, our low point at Balsas comes into viewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1503.jpgDSC_1503After Leymebamba at the head of the valley, the easy going ends, and some slower but still very manageable climbing begins. 30km up with not much view to speak of - Sarah in 'high-vis' modehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dsc_1491_2.jpgDSC_1491_2The diamond pattern, often with a central circle adorns modern buildings throughout the area too2012-07-07T23:38:26+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/10/19/peru-cajamarca-to-caraz-fat-tyre-inspiration-and-paths-found/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1673_21.jpgDSC_1673_2Joe smells the Cusqueña Negra in Caraz, so we push on into the dark. Sarah clocks up a record 9.5 hours riding time!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1670_2.jpgDSC_1670_2The Cañon del Pato is a succession of tunnels built in connection with a hydroelectric power station. We found them a less attractive experience than those lower down the valley, and considerably more dicey. The MAC trucks that hurtle through them raising clouds of dust in their wake don't leave much space for even well-lit cyclists...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1663.jpgDSC_1663A little while later the taps have been turned on, so a rest-stop is in orderhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1661_2.jpgDSC_1661_2The next tunnel even has holes to let in the lighthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1659.jpgDSC_1659Sarah readjusts to the light after one of the tunnels before Yungasmarca - practice for the fun to come in the Cañon del Patohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1655_2.jpgDSC_1655_2The sun clears the mountains, casting shadows and making bad photos difficult to takehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1647_21.jpgDSC_1647_2Having turned of the brief stretch of tarmac at Chuquicara, we manage 25km on a much rougher but tailwind assisted road before spotting a partially hidden ledge above the river and gladly set up camphttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/p10104981.jpgP1010498The second fording is a bit more of a challenge - thigh deep and much faster. Time to unload and try to hold on!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1632.jpgDSC_1632The next day we continue on into the guts of the earth. The river, in forming the gorge, has scoured the rocks clean leaving much for miners near the surface in a starkly beautiful wayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1628_2.jpgDSC_1628_2Shallow and wide - no problem for big tyres!2012-01-08T21:12:07+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/10/24/peru-caraz-to-huaraz-via-the-unbeaten-track/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1767.jpgDSC_1767Huaraz beckons...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1764_2.jpgDSC_1764_2In the dry, rocky valley floor, the scale of the descent we've made stretches the eye.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1761.jpgDSC_1761https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1760.jpgDSC_1760Descending into the Quebrada isn't as straightforward as we'd hoped. The clouds begin to gatherhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1757.jpgDSC_1757As we finally crest the pass into the Quebrada Honda, we are shadowed by great wings. Maybe Condors - we don't get a close enough lookhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1753_2.jpgDSC_1753_2especially when every foot of progress is hard-won. Sunshine helps thoughhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1752_2.jpgDSC_1752_2The next morning is bright as hoped for, but getting out of a nice warm bed is less than attractivehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1748_2.jpgDSC_1748_2Rain turned to snow. With the prospect of more and no sign of the pass, we camp. Joe's tarptent gets well weighted downhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1746_2.jpgDSC_1746_2The riding doesn't last long, and hauling our loaded bikes up increasingly steep slopes uses more than all our energy. Then it begins to rainhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/dsc_1739.jpgDSC_1739Joe enjoys some riding as we rise and rise2014-10-15T05:33:49+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/01/peru-huaraz-to-huallanca-and-on-to-huanuco/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/hangingcorn.jpgHangingCornThen there is always maize, hung to dry out of harms wayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/verticalpotatoes.jpgVerticalPotatoesPotatoes everywhere - fit them in where you can!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/puntauniondownhillpossie.jpgPuntaUnionDownhillPossieAfter a morning working our way up, the possie fly down the narrow curves from Punta Union to Huánucohttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/launiongorgetextures.jpgLaUnionGorgeTexturesOnward, the textures changehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tuktukgorge.jpgTuktukGorgeSo different - limestone river gorge - smooth pavement - still little traffic, and we cruise - Joy!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/10.jpg10The aftermath leaves us mudspattered as evening approaches. A very quick 25km downhill on asphalt brings Huallanca into viewhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/9.jpg9Afternoon snow and thunder moves to engulf us as I stop to patch a puncture. After I repair a second not long afterwards, the worst passes us byhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/8.jpg8Almost at the Huarapasca pass, the now-brief shafts of sun only sweep the mountainshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/7.jpg7We don't have the heights to ourselves. Herders live in grass-thatched stone shelters - their livestock in pens nearby overnighthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/6.jpg6With Joe making a more leisurely start to the morning to write and Sarah already far on ahead, I pause to look at rock-art under a large boulder on the way to the 1st of passes2012-01-08T21:11:51+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/06/peru-huanuco-to-huancayo-surprise-finds-and-even-some-flat-riding/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1895.jpgDSC_1895A day later, all has changed - fast roads and sunshine. And mining - La Oroya proclaims itself the Metal capital of the worldhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1893_2.jpgDSC_1893_2Closing in on Junín and the highway, we're both still layered up to the max. Someone's built an outdoor swimming pool - they're tough round here!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1892_2.jpgDSC_1892_2more weather sweeps along the other side of the valley - leaving the flamingoes serenely doing their thinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1890_2.jpgDSC_1890_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1888_2.jpgDSC_1888_2There was much excitement when we saw flamingoes near our camp spot - later we realised that we weren't going to have trouble spotting them! https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1884_2.jpgDSC_1884_2Somewhere over there, the main road has lots of trucks on it - over here there is peace and a nice dirt roadhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1880_2.jpgDSC_1880_2Have spanner on multi-tool, will fix single-speed! Flat places breed cyclists and not many gears...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1867.jpgDSC_1867Why carry these if you don't use them - ample opportunity above 4000m with nothing much to stop the wind - Lago Junínhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1865_2.jpgDSC_1865_2We emerge from ravines into flatness - and watch the weather as we fudge a connection of misdirections into a routehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1863.jpgDSC_1863Another corner brings a shrine and grotto - and a local travelling to Lima along with 4 sons of progressively smaller size (the local russian doll series....)2012-01-08T21:11:37+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/11/peru-huancayo-to-ayacucho-glorying-in-the-heights/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/17afterschoolwork.jpg17AfterSchoolWork¿After-school work? Children work in teams to wash trucks and taxis on the road-side as we approach Ayacucho at the end of a long day. There are more than 14000 primary school age children in Perú not registered for school and only 61% of children attend secondary school. https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/16aroadforpeace.jpg16ARoadforPeaceA road for peace - we are in lands where the Sendero Luminosa (Shining Path), a maoist group, were most active. The sign talks about making reparation to the province most affected by political violence in Perúhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/15politicseverywhere.jpg15PoliticsEverywhereWhitewash with slogans are everywhere in central and south america - houses, walls and gorge-sides - politics reaches the peoplehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/14rosemarie.jpg14RosemarieRosemarie - a 50-something year old Swiss solo cyclist left Paraguay 6 months ago - only limited by the need to be back for her daughter's wedding sometime in 2012! We're inspiredhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/13riverconfluence.jpg13RiverConfluenceRiver confluences - the low-point before a hot-hot, but well graded climb towards Huantahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/12peruhairpinshortcut.jpg12PeruHairpinShortcutEeny-meeny-miney-mo.. Hairpin shortcut to the left and easy angled road to the right. Heading down to river-bottom at Mayocc from Churcampa, with lots of skittery fun to be had taking the steeper line :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/11cactiflowers.jpg11CactiFlowersDescending towards dry heat and midgies, flowering stems of maguey-like cacti crowd the wayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/10-moreridge.jpg10 moreridgehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/9ridgetop.jpg9RidgeTopSarah caught in silhouette - the road skirls along, over and road the ridge-tophttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/8ontopoftheworld.jpg8OnTopoftheWorldA night in snug comfort with bright moon and stars on our ridge-top camp - morning comes with coffee and porridge - and frost2013-01-20T19:45:20+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/19/peru-ayacucho-to-abancay-protests-and-rollercoasters/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1996_2.jpgDSC_1996_2After a night of prolonged heavy rain, thunder and much lightening (and dry snugness), clouds and mist continue to ebb and flow around the final drop into Abancayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1994_2.jpgDSC_1994_2In splendid isolation above the road down to Huancarama - this archeological site is tourist free, in contrast to Machu Picchuhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1991.jpgDSC_1991As a diversion for the next up (the rest of the morning....) we take a footpath - slightly teetery, but funhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1990_2.jpgDSC_1990_2A sharp corner sports a bright range of memorials - those who didn't or couldn't slow down. We do, and pass on downwardshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1984.jpgDSC_1984Camping near the head of the valley out of the lake, the next morning brings cloud - and down - with masked drop and swirling visibilityhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1980_2.jpgDSC_1980_2Laguna Pacucha - the beginning of a route less travelled from Andahuaylas to Abancayhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1977_2.jpgDSC_1977_250km down, 50km up - evening sees us above 4000m again - camping we yearn for - a bedtime view to induce sighs of contentmenthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1973_2.jpgDSC_1973_2Not sure of being held up again further up the road we make an early start (even for us) - on the road at 6am! Streams of trucks release from the blockages trundle past us. Later we are told that the demonstrations have finished - the roads for hundred of kms to come are littered with evidence of the people's supporthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1972_2.jpgDSC_1972_2Proximity to the river and a warmer altitude brings biting insects - we are told the pungent juice from these leaves will repel them - tests are still ongoing...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1970.jpgDSC_1970This isn't supposed to be a numbers game - 10 000km happened in southern México, now we've doubled it.2012-01-08T21:11:05+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/26/peru-abancay-to-cusco-nevado-salkantay-machu-picchu-and-a-tale-of-two-trains/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0055.jpgDSC_0055Estrellita, a hostal in Cusco, has become a meeting point for cyclists passing through. They do things in style, complete with ramp to making getting your loaded bike through the door easier!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0025.jpgDSC_0025Percy passes on the final, busy stretch into Cusco, then drops back to accompany us. A while later, he's guided us in via a shortcut and given us the lowdown on the local bike shops. ¡Muchas Gracia!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0024_2.jpgDSC_0024_2A few km after Ollantaytambo, the railway ducks into a gorge - we follow. Steady rising dirt to Huarocondo resultshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0022_2.jpgDSC_0022_2Unloading - trekking porters crowd to collect their packs - our bikes, having been packed first, are lasthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0021.jpgDSC_0021We catch the 5.30 am PeruRail train to Ollantaytambo with our bikes - later trains don't have a baggage carriagehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0019_2.jpgDSC_0019_2Evening is closing in, together with oncoming rain - a play of light gives me the classic shothttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0007.jpgDSC_0007Here and there more of the locals have a footholdhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/csc_0004.jpgCSC_0004Machu Picchu was built without mortar. We're able to abandon our doubts at visiting and possibly contributing to erosion - in wondermenthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_2030.jpgDSC_2030A day begins - clouds stir, and the locals munchhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_2026.jpgDSC_2026Amusement in translation2015-04-09T04:13:31+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/30/peru-glances-and-moments/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0019_21.jpgDSC_0019_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_2036_21.jpgDSC_2036_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_20191.jpgDSC_2019https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_2007_21.jpgDSC_2007_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1996-version-2.jpgDSC_1996 - Version 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1989-version-2.jpgDSC_1989 - Version 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1972.jpgDSC_1972https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1967-version-2.jpgDSC_1967 - Version 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1933-version-2.jpgDSC_1933 - Version 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1890-version-2.jpgDSC_1890 - Version 22012-01-08T21:10:42+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/05/peru-cusco-to-juliaca-little-roads-worth-taking/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0084_21.jpgDSC_0084_2Morning bright clarity, with morning climbing and rising. I pause at a collection of adobe houses to wait a moment. I'm greeted with enthusiasm, and as Sarah arrives, we discuss many things. Mining wealth lost to the few in Lima and countries abroad (a long story in Perú - hundreds of years). Inequalities between the ruling few and the many indigenous. Have there been other travellers along here? A few - asking for camping 2 or 3 times - not many. Smiles and wisdom. We are enriched and humbledhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0115.jpgDSC_0115On from Palca, heading for Lampa, we're back into the wide-open again. Diversion from incipient monotony in narrow 'short-cuts'. Juliaca and a side-trip to Puno to officially exit Perú are nexthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0114_2.jpgDSC_0114_2Back into cañon-lands heading for Palcahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0108_2.jpgDSC_0108_2A road to follow - sky - mountains - blisshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0106_2.jpgDSC_0106_2Sheepfolds and tin roofs. If you look carefully further up there is the glint from a pit dunny - wouldn't want to be caught short! Sanitation, water and electrification are slowly reaching the remote heightshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0103_2.jpgDSC_0103_2Cresting the pass, and with swooping downward curves to come, a pause to allow the traffic to crosshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0101_2.jpgDSC_0101_2Near the top of the climb we camp. Just after dinner's prepared the storm arrived - snow at this altitude, but we're snug and warm. The next morning as the sun progressively bathes the view the tent is the last to escape the shadows. With only a hint of the night's weather lefthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0097.jpgDSC_0097In contrast to relatively small numbers of Puya Raymondii we passed between Huaraz and Huallanca earlier in Perú, there is a large forest of them here. Whole hillsides with plenty in flower - this one many times my heighthttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0094.jpgDSC_0094A while later we begin to climb - after nearly 25km of mostly flat riding from the highway through the Cañon. The local dogs pay their respects - grabbing at our bikes with a tenacity we don't appreciate. They're bigger and better fed than the central american ones.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0092_2.jpgDSC_0092_2Signed off the highway a little south of Ayaviri, the Cañon Tinajani shelters herds of sheep and alpacas. Lunch, some story, and we head on.2012-01-08T21:10:26+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/10/perubolivia-juliaca-to-la-paz-passing-the-lake-by-the-north/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0134.jpgDSC_0134The meeting of many ways - narrow road tyres and an 'all piled in' approach meet our somewhat weary steeds. The La Paz Casa de Ciclista is a haven to hundreds of bicycle-travellers. Thanks to Cristian and Luisahttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0133_2.jpgDSC_0133_2Early warnings of the mostly unfettered bustle to come. 25km short of La Paz, the traffic mounts - minibuses zip in and out to catch all available passengers, while more massive trucks keep a steady and unstoppable line. Cyclists take their chances!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0132_2.jpgDSC_0132_2Leaving the lake behind, the landscape opens up - giving the afternoon wind plenty of space to chill things. All the while Nevado Ancohuma looks onhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0129_2.jpgDSC_0129_2The villages we pass through on the Bolivian side sometimes bustle, sometimes not - not much happening herehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0124_2.jpgDSC_0124_2This quiet coastline has a mediterranean feel - lots of wooden fishing boats and azure water (and no tourists)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0123_2.jpgDSC_0123_2Moho is a decision point. Head directly towards the border at Ninantaya or divert towards the lake? We choose the latter, but after leaving town. After a climb over these hills, with some great looking limestone slab climbing, we hit the paved road along the coast that we could have taken straight from Moho...https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0121-version-2.jpgDSC_0121 - Version 2More evidence of the superiority of women... Spinning wool, walking and keeping a small child under controlhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0118-version-2.jpgDSC_0118 - Version 2After a morning of relatively wind-less flatness, the music strikes up. The local band are relegated to practicing in the middle of the largest open space they can find. Huacané.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0117_2.jpgDSC_0117_2Leaving Juliaca - a town without much of a reputation for cleaned up touristy nice-ness . A common sight - not often photographed - clothes washing and chatting amongst the detritus and off-casts2014-09-20T15:01:43+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/13/bolivia-making-do-and-getting-by-the-wonder-of-being-able-to-fix-things-properly-at-last/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0150.jpgDSC_0150slow going at first - she has a bad back - no wonder, given that the bike is likely several times her body weight!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_01491.jpgDSC_0149The 'official' shot - ready for the offhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0149.jpgDSC_0149https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0146.jpgDSC_01464 Ortlieb panniers is only the beginning - every conceivable space has something attached - string, bungies and foam paddinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0151.jpgDSC_0151In progress. The bare bones of the Big Dummy - cable ties are a wonderful thing.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0138.jpgDSC_0138Stripped down, cleaned and ready for new cables, housing, chain....https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0128.jpgDSC_0128A broken mounting wire requires a jury-rig. Not a long-term solution as now my bar bag flips towards me if I go over big bumps too fast! Thankfully a problem solved by Sarah's secret early Christmas present from me...2012-01-08T21:10:02+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/30/bolivia-la-paz-to-san-juan-del-rosario-rain-and-salt/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0320.jpgDSC_0320Congealed concentrated salt solution soaked through and encrusted on everything. Arriving in San Juan and a junction with our final days in Bolivia we award ourselves an early mark and try to clean allhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0316_2.jpgDSC_0316_2Stretching kilometres out towards Uyuni, we exit the firm, albeit soggy Salar to tracks of soft sand and washboard. Thump!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0314_2.jpgDSC_0314_2As if from somewhere in between places, Sarah comes to shorehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0307_2.jpgDSC_0307_2A moment of repose on a drier patch - the crunch of the night before has smoothedhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0305_2.jpgDSC_0305_2Water - a sheen to reflect the glare even more. The world retreats again with time marked by pedal strokeshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0298_2.jpgDSC_0298_2Late morning we collide with the world at Isla Incahuasi - the cactus covered outcrop in the middle of the Salar. Even in low-season there are ranks of 4WD - and some of the locals courting, careless of the attentionhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0253_2.jpgDSC_0253_2Tent doors wide to revel in the place - the colours of the sinking glow warm our grinshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0242_2.jpgDSC_0242_2Our palace awaits us - all alonehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0237_2.jpgDSC_0237_2The planned stone peg basher forgotten in the moment of shore-departure. A problems solved by drilling peg holes in the salt with our leatherman knife - ice-screws would have done better but calm falls as the lines holdhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0222.jpgDSC_0222We set a time for camp - there is no other reference - no feature to pick from. Then comes the challenge of grounding the tent in the face of unimpeded wind. A guy rope to my bike drags it slowly over the salt ridges2012-01-08T21:09:45+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/31/bolivia-salar-de-uyuni-gallery/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0318_2.jpgDSC_0318_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0317_2.jpgDSC_0317_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0316_21.jpgDSC_0316_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0306_21.jpgDSC_0306_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0306_2.jpgDSC_0306_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0300_2.jpgDSC_0300_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0280_2.jpgDSC_0280_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0277_2.jpgDSC_0277_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0275_2.jpgDSC_0275_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0263.jpgDSC_02632012-01-08T21:09:35+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/31/boliviachile-san-juan-del-rosario-to-san-pedro-de-atacama-lagunas-and-washboard/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0408_2.jpgDSC_0408_2Border crossings we have known! Leaving Bolivia - just a shed on a dirt road. The hot desert-bound Chilean tourist mecca of San Pedro de Atacama awaits us.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0402_2.jpgDSC_0402_2Laguna Blanca in reflective moodhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0398.jpgDSC_0398Coral - left from a bygone age when the lakes were morehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0399.jpgDSC_0399A final campsite sheltered in abandoned buildings - our tent only just fits. And not only is there no evening rain, no overnight rain, but it is sunny in the morning too!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0394_2.jpgDSC_0394_2Shafts of light splay colours on the mountains - rain holds off, though wind doesn'thttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0390_2.jpgDSC_0390_2The glowering sky soon manifests. A forced halt to fix a puncture. I'm overwarm, so layers come off, but with this I cause a deluge - duh!. Bedraggled and dripping we sit amid 4WD groups the restaurant at Laguna Chalviri nibbling on our cream crackers and jam. We must look in need - we're given leftover hot meal and bananas! https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0385.jpgDSC_0385Signposts! https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0381_2.jpgDSC_0381_2Unexpected clear sky, though with gathering thunder-heads. Looking back down a hill we found harder than we'd liked - altitude or more than 10 days with a rest?! https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0379_2.jpgDSC_0379_2The elusive road on from Laguna Colorada. After waking to ongoing rain, a blessedly shelter but late breakfast at the refugio, we managed to add over 6km to our already shortened day missing the more direct road to this.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0375_2.jpgDSC_0375_2We arrived at the Arbol de Piedra rock formation to a round of applause from the 4WD tourists who'd arrived the easier way. The unexpected celebratory status resulted in photos of us with multiple groups - who'd passed us earlier in the afternoon. Very strange2012-01-08T21:09:23+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/31/bolivia-lagunas-gallery/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0403_2.jpgDSC_0403_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0395.jpgDSC_0395https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0393_2.jpgDSC_0393_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0389_2.jpgDSC_0389_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0387_2.jpgDSC_0387_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_03851.jpgDSC_0385https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0369_2.jpgDSC_0369_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0360-version-2.jpgDSC_0360 - Version 2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0354_2.jpgDSC_0354_2https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0346_21.jpgDSC_0346_22012-01-08T21:08:57+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/08/chileargentina-san-pedro-de-atacama-to-olacapato/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0449_2.jpgDSC_0449_2Ricardo and R only stop their 4WD in Olacapato to pick up some fuel from the Policia. Experience travellers they spirit us all the way to Salta through some challenging rain-drenched roads. ¡Muchisimas Gracias por todo!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0448.jpgDSC_0448After explaining our lack of ready money, we are astonished to be offered a floor to camp on, internet and help getting towards Salta. The station has the whole range of facilities - including a wide-format typewriter!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0446.jpgDSC_0446Heavily laden, but surprisingly fast on the downhill stretches, our non-companion Xtracycles on.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0445.jpgDSC_0445We ride-push across the sodden Salar de Cauchari in varying relation to the Frenchman - un-synchronised.https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0437_2.jpgDSC_0437_2Nearing the border crossing into Argentina, our 14th country, Sarah checks on her friends - travelling safe and snug :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0436_2.jpgDSC_0436_2Now that the rains have begun - 'Bolivian' weather as the El Laco boys tell us - the roads turn to thick energy sapping clag at just the wrong momentshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0433_2.jpgDSC_0433_2Over the Paso El Laco towards the lonely Chilean quarantine post the snow turns to mud - joy!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0430_2.jpgDSC_0430_2The wind shifts the blanketed silence enough to see Cairngorm-like surroundshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0429.jpgDSC_0429Within minutes cloud settles around us - we keep close, and pause for clothing adjustmentshttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/dsc_0427.jpgDSC_0427Mario and his mate salute us as we leave - probably expecting us back before too long. They're alone minding the mine - not much to do other than gleefully email photos of falling snow-flakes to their boss and sweep them once-fallen from their somewhat leaky roof2012-01-09T12:17:32+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/bolivia/2012-01-08T18:49:16+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/05/sarah-podcasts/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/sharemusic.jpgShareMusicSharing music with one of the local (photo: T.Walwyn)2012-01-07T21:28:08+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2012/01/01/happy-new-year/2012-01-06T13:25:54+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/18/seasons-greetings/2011-12-28T01:54:00+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/12/11/sarah-gringa/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/eugenioriding.jpgEugenioRidinghttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_0054.jpgDSC_0054How about this one? (Photo: T. Walwyn)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/dsc_1846_2.jpgdsc_1846_2Does this man look like a Gringo to you?2012-01-08T22:23:56+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/peru/2014-06-18T23:57:22+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/25/sarah-accidental-eavesdroppers/2012-01-08T22:29:06+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/13/sarah-lost-and-stolen/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/eeyore.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2012-03-08T16:30:25+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/ecuador/2011-11-11T19:31:11+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/2011/11/08/with-everything-on-bar-her-down-jacket-sleeping-bag-and-the-tent-choices-and-carrying-things/https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1313.jpgDSC_1313Iván and his friends are doing their first loaded cycle tour from their home in Pasto to San Agustin and points beyond. Within a minute of our meeting we're offered a place to stay in Pasto with his mother - all we have to do is ring and explain how she's been volunteered!https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1830.jpgDSC_1830A bit back heavy - lots of broken spokes - going to be great when Angus finds some ocean to surf in :-)https://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1837.jpgDSC_1837It all fits in - the boys heading for the Amazon and points northhttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_0764.jpgDSC_0764This is how a journey begins - leaving Mayapedal with a $60 bikehttps://bicyclenomad.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/dsc_1373.jpgDSC_1373Dagmar and Mete are in for the long haul - 3-5 years all over the world they tell us. Lots of gear, but enjoying it all2011-11-07T04:47:00+00:00monthlyhttps://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/colombia/2011-11-01T15:48:19+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/guatemala/2013-07-24T17:31:16+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/nicaragua/2011-10-27T20:25:42+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.com/route-information/honduras/2013-08-22T15:27:23+00:00weekly0.6https://bicyclenomad.comdaily1.02021-06-08T03:37:08+00:00